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Loading a FatBoy on a 5x8 landscape trailer

When I picked up my dyna it was for sale 500 miles away as it was an older bike at a much lower price than I could have found around here I bought a trailer to bring it home with my trailer is a motorcycle trailer with spaces for the front wheel to drop into and hold the bike upright however a wheel chock would give the same effect
4 tie down ratchet straps 2 at the front from the headstock and 2 at the rear on the top suspension mounts and compressed the suspension a wee bit and bike followed us home without issue
Here in the UK speed limit is slightly lower when towing a trailer and keep the unit to the centre of the road in curves and there shouldn't be an issue
A wee bit of prep and planning and get the trailer nose weight and balance correct and it should follow well

Brian
 
Every time you stop for gas check your tie downs and you should be good to go
 
Forget the trailer and ride it out there

I've been trying to figure that out but the OL won't let me send our boxer on the plane ride with her so I need to drive the van.

Tires were mentioned and they are honestly the only concern I have. Need to look if I can swap the skinny ones out for fatter and larger radius tires. I'm also going to pop the bearing cap off and put some bearing buddies on there so I don't have to keep packing the bearings.
 
I have trailered my bikes a few times and never had a problem. I also use the wheel chocks but I also built a wooden block for under the bike. When trailering a bike if you tie it down to tight you danger ruining your fork seals. If you snug it just right and hit any bumps in the road your straps compress and might cause you a problem. The reason for the block is so you don't put the unwanted stress on your front end and blow your seals. Just get a 2x6x10 and make a block just the right size to fit under your frame. Slide it under, tighten down your bike compressing your frame on the block and you will have no problems. You will not ruin the frame, the wood actually is softer and will make marks where your frame sits on it Hope this makes sense!
 
Every time you stop for gas check your tie downs and you should be good to go
also touch the hubs with your hand to see if the wheel bearings are hot or not. and use the straps to pull the bike a little forward in to the chock when tying it down.
 
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I don't believe the washer and dryer will fit on if they are full size. I have a 5x8 utility trailer and my softail custom occupies just about all of it. Also make sure you have a spare tire, just in case.
 
i don't believe the washer and dryer will fit on if they are full size. I have a 5x8 utility trailer and my softail custom occupies just about all of it. Also make sure you have a spare tire, just in case.

So I went for a test drive this weekend and it held up pretty well. I think I will end up springing for a real wheel chock because I don't really feel like testing the engine guard again when loosening the straps. If you know what I mean :small3d023:

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So I went for a test drive this weekend and it held up pretty well. I think I will end up springing for a real wheel chock because I don't really feel like testing the engine guard again when loosening the straps. If you know what I mean :small3d023:

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Harbor Freight has wheel chocks on sale for 40.00 bucks with all the hardware to bolt to the floor. IMO, that's the only way to go.
 
The crash bar will hold the bike just fine, I would be a bit worried that strap may rub on the cowbell and or front fender JMO
 
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