Load eliminator relay

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by TheDuck, Jan 4, 2011.

  1. TheDuck

    TheDuck New Member

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    Just wondering...
    Does anyone know of a relay, either stock or aftermarket, that will de-energize the headlight while cranking the engine and then re-energize it after the starter
    button is released.
    Thought that I saw something like that awhile back. It was a simple plug in installation.
     
  2. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    Here is a simplified wiring diagram...

    [​IMG]

    Notice that the start button has a relay that keeps the current thru it low. I suppose you could use a 2nd similar relay to switch off the headlight...until you release the start button...but I would probably put a 20A DPDT switch, wire both sides to spit the current to both sets of contacts in series with the headlight low filament for better current carrying...simple is better and less things to go wrong JMHO...and I personally like to control when the headlight is on and when it is off.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2011
  3. ultra...good

    ultra...good Banned

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    If only it could still be simple. My 1974 has a position where it will run with no lights, but the brake light will work, not the running light. The 1999 is lights with everything. I'm all for using the lights when on the road and always will, but it is nice to have the option of no lights for starting, warming up, or when off road. Just my opinion, and had to say it.
     
  4. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    If you only wire the dual switch in series with the low filiment, that will cut off the main headlamp filiament only...that is about 8-10A, but the tail & marker lights will be lit so you will still have an outline of your bike in case you have to restart at night safely...which is okay by me. My brand "Y" bikes all worked the same...only with cutout relay and diode setup, which came factory wired, just don't have my old schematics to check the wiring out.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2011
  5. btsom

    btsom Active Member

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    On a different machine, I put a toggle switch in ground line for the headlight. I used a male and a female connector on the switch so if the switch failed, I could connect the two wires together to restore the headlight. I would do the same on the Road King if I could figure out a clean, factory style location for one more switch. No relays or fuses needed as it was in the ground side. It is 100% manual, it is the operator's responsibility to turn on the headlight.
     
  6. karlsbike

    karlsbike Active Member

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    Not a big fan of 'always on' lights as I like to decide when things come on.
    When I did my RK conversion, I wired in two toggle switches - one for the passing lamps, one for the head & tail lamp (brakelights always live). This gives me full control also over the passing lamps, as I can have both high beam and passing lamps on when travelling dark, lonely roads...

    The nacelle has room for these two switches but I suppose you have a cruise control switch on one of them?
    If it were me, I'd probably wire in a small cruise switch up where it should be - on one of the handlebar controls, leaving space for a headlight switch on the nacelle. Should be a simple job with wiring diagrams available (of course, you would need to splice into the stock wiring, but it can be done nice & clean...)
     
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Seems to me we cut a yellow wire on softails so the boys could run in Sturgis with no headlight during the day light hours
     
  8. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    [​IMG]

    Yep, if you look at the schematic, cut and put the switch in series with the yellow wire ends (using matching bullet connectors), low beam is off...quick and easy! But I want to be able to have emergency light by just turning in Hi beam. :s

    You can do Btsom' method, both hi and lo beams will be disabled, and if the switch fails in either case you can plug the mating plugs to get the lights working again...also simple but effective. :ap
     
  9. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    OP wanted the headlight to be off when cranking the engine...like most metric bikes have done since the 70's. Just one less high current drain load for the battery and charging system, which during those times was often undersized for the application. Those were the days when the Japanese were competing against the British twins....and eliminating kickstart.:yes
     
  10. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    Not saying it was right, just saying that was the "reasoning" and sign of the times as battery technology and 12V systems were really needed "back then"...as in the old days generator/alternator and British electrics were, how should I say "wanting".