lifters

[Slo-Ryd]

Just throwing this out there after i chased a top end noise last year thinking it was rocker area noise. quiet when cold, got progressively louder as it warmed up. you say the motor was blown when you got it and you've rebuilt it. Here's what happened to mine.....the pinion shaft has a $2.00 keyway. This keyway sheared and allowed the cam timing to jump slightly. The noise I was hearing was the valve making contact with the top of the piston and as it warmed up, the tolerances grew smaller making the noise louder. The bike still ran, not great but it ran. If you have the special pinion socket, do yourself a quick favor and remove the pinion gear on the crank as a precaution. I chased this annoying tick until it finally really let loose and the pinion gear spun almost 180 degrees. I still couldn't see the sheared keyway but knew something was up when the intake valves were opening as the piston was rising.

Again, may not be your situation but worth the quick look at that keyway. It's a horrible designed T keyway that catches the oilpump gear and cam pinion gear by the itty bitty 1/8" on each end of the keyway. PM me if you need to borrow the pinion nut socket....pay the postage and I can mail it for you to borrow.

 

[dolt]

There is no keyway in the TC pinion shaft. The pinion shaft has "flat" side and the pinion gear has a corresponding flat; pretty near impossible for the pinion sprocket to rotate/spin on the pinion shaft.:dknow

 

[corrigon]

I had to out vote you on the relief spring, I made a plug type in the lathe, about a ten minute job so if I guessed wrong on thickness no big deal. The bike had been test run about five miles plus started several times in the shop, seems it should have had some oil up there. Anyhow, until I find something else I am going to be stubborn and blame it on the lifters. Also I am going to try to come up with something to take the noise out of those pt covers. I may get this thing so quiet you will have to check the tach to see if it's running.:s

 

[Slo-Ryd]

There is no keyway in the TC pinion shaft. The pinion shaft has "flat" side and the pinion gear has a corresponding flat; pretty near impossible for the pinion sprocket to rotate/spin on the pinion shaft.:dknow

I just finished the engine on my 1999 twin cam touring and took it for a spin.

Dohhhh......How did I miss one of the first sentences? I thought he was working on an Evo. Absolutely correct Dolt. I just had my TC lower end apart and there's no way that pinion gear can spin on that shaft with the 1/3 flat machined surface. Much better design than the Evo pinion shaft.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Dohhhh......How did I miss one of the first sentences? I thought he was working on an Evo. Absolutely correct Dolt. I just had my TC lower end apart and there's no way that pinion gear can spin on that shaft with the 1/3 flat machined surface. Much better design than the Evo pinion shaft.

I missed that too AL, the Evos are left thread too if I remember right:s

 

[dolt]

I had to out vote you on the relief spring, I made a plug type in the lathe, about a ten minute job so if I guessed wrong on thickness no big deal. The bike had been test run about five miles plus started several times in the shop, seems it should have had some oil up there. Anyhow, until I find something else I am going to be stubborn and blame it on the lifters. Also I am going to try to come up with something to take the noise out of those pt covers. I may get this thing so quiet you will have to check the tach to see if it's running.:s

Hey man, if you have the tools, the plug will work but you want that relief valve to open up at 35psi. Lifters was a good call and the CompCams lifters are basically a small block Chevy lifter; those are also an option.

Good luck with reaming out the pushrod tubes. You might also align the rocker boxes but I don't think you will solve the problem without tapered pushrods. Good luck my friend.

 

[corrigon]

That pressure is what I am shooting for dolt and if I missed it (probably to high) it is a simple job to shave a little off
I have been thinking of some way to take the ringing noise out of those tube covers and wondered what you thought of some kind of pt coating, such as that Rino stuff they coat pickup beds with. It is about indestructible and the rods don,t touch all that hard. Any kind of coating that wouldn't peel off and would absorb the rattle should work. I read one article that said the tapered rods still touch. I would hate to spend that kind of money and not gain anything. I also have a couple of other ideas on that subject, will keep the forum updated if I get something to work. Those things are a natural born echo chamber.
Big Al, I figured we were working on two different rigs. Point is you were trying to help and I appreciate it.

 

[dolt]

That pressure is what I am shooting for dolt and if I missed it (probably to high) it is a simple job to shave a little off
I have been thinking of some way to take the ringing noise out of those tube covers and wondered what you thought of some kind of pt coating, such as that Rino stuff they coat pickup beds with. It is about indestructible and the rods don,t touch all that hard. Any kind of coating that wouldn't peel off and would absorb the rattle should work. I read one article that said the tapered rods still touch. I would hate to spend that kind of money and not gain anything. I also have a couple of other ideas on that subject, will keep the forum updated if I get something to work. Those things are a natural born echo chamber.

Interesting idea but I am skeptical of putting something like that inside and exposing a foreign material to oil and heat; besides, it masks the symptom but doesn't fix it. A set of SE Quick Install Tapered pushrods (PN18404-08) will not make contact with the inside of the tubes. Align the rocker boxes, Dremel the crimped "ridge" on the inside of the tube at the top; that should eliminate the contact even with straight OEM type pushrods unless cams have a lift of more than .600".

 

[corrigon]

Dolt, would you mind describing rocker alignment. Doesn't seem to be much movement to allow much alignment.

 

[dolt]

Dolt, would you mind describing rocker alignment. Doesn't seem to be much movement to allow much alignment.

There isn't much room but it also doesn't take much contact between pushrod and tube to make some racket.

There are a couple of ways to do it. There are rocker box alignment pins and you can also use the oil pump alignment pins. As you know, a fastener threaded into the fastener boss leave some room for the piece being fastened to move 360* away from the center of the fastener boss. The pins are tapered so they "center up" on the fastener boss.

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I have read that some guys use brass ferrules that are used in copper compression fittings for this purpose. Aligning the rocker box positions the top of the purhrod tube closer to the center of the pushrod travel.

It may not make any difference but, to me, makes as much sense as taking a Dremel tool to the crimped ridged on the inside of the pushrod tube. It's a detail; that's where the devil is.:s