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Left Side blinker stays on, hazard's ok

C

Cannibal

New Member
I did a search but couldn't find a situation as unique as this. When I hit the left blinker switch the left rear signal comes on and stays on while the front stay lit as a marker light (does not get brighter). However, if I hit both switches (hazard mode) both rears blink and the front right blink, but the front left stays in marker light mode.
Yes, I've tried switching the bulbs and I did wiggle the wiring with no help at all. So basically, the front left never flashes and the rear left only flashes when I hit the hazards.
I'm about one step from tearing out the wiring and checking it, but I wanted to check with the electrical pros first. I'm thinking that I may be missing something since the rear starts blinking in hazard. I have changed handlebars and did re-wire the switches, so there is always the possibility that something has gone wrong at one of the solder points, but I don't want to go there unless absolutely necessary. Any ideas?

BTW, I did run a ground wire from the blk wire terminal on the side of the bulb housing to the frame with no success. However, there are 2 other wires, I think they were purple and green. It's 2000 FXDWG, if that helps.

Thanks.
 
Last year when I took my bike out for first ride in the spring I had trouble with the left blinker would just come on by itself. Hit the button it would go off, look down a little later, would be back on. Didn't matter what I did with the right. The left would just come on on it's own, I could turn it on or off as I wanted but it would continue to come on on it's own. Talked to dealers and others, nobody had a clue. Never happened again after that day. I chalked it up to to much humidity. Temps low at night and pretty decent during the day and the cement floor was sweating terrible.
 
I don't have a Dyna model and my TC Factory Touring manual is at the garage, but I have a Clymer touring book here and my Factory manual for the '90 Heritage, in the Clymer it shows blue and purple to the left front signal and running light and the '90 SM shows both black but with purple(Violet) tape on one and the other has a blue feed on the hot side of the connector. I don't think the color codes change between models, I'll check the TC Factory Manual today to see whats what there, I have found mistakes in the Clymer Manual wiring diagrams in the past so don't jump yet, I'll post whats there this evening.
 
There's about two things that can cause that problem, something with the bulb or wrong bulb or something wired incorrectly if it's not the bulb or wiring problem like a break or ground.
 
If the indicator circuit doesn't draw sufficient wattage then it doesn't flash
so if you have a problem on 1 light then that side wont flash if only it is selected
but if you try the hazard lights sufficient wattage is drawn through the the flasher circuit to make it work
as it needs about 40 watts to get the circuit to flash
so once you have front left sorted then all will be well
i think that the handlebar switch will be OK as you have rear coming on and you can have hazard warning
so the problem must be the front left bulb/bulb holder/ wiring
so shouldn't be too difficult to track down the fault

Brian
 
The Purple(Violet) wire is the left side signal, since you put new bars on and rewired the switches ,I'd start there .Always go back to the last thing you did, your running light works so I'd say the ground is good and terminations on the blue are too. Your rear light won't flash because of a break in the circuit, check your terminations from the handlebar switch to the light socket.
Hope it helps, let us know what you find.
 
Older models used a thermal bi-metallic flasher, which had to heat up a metal element, relaxing the spring tension keeping internal contacts closed opening the bulb circuit...allowing metal element to cool and close the circuit, and repeating this process. Two failure modes, if the hazard lights work okay, but turn signals do not.

1) an individual bulb element(s) is bad or wrong bulb types have been substituted. 2) the flasher element is fatigued and not able to open the circuit with the lighter load of left or right filiments by themselves. Check the bulbs, all of them, by substituiton with new correct type one at a time (this is cheaper than replacing flasher) and while you are at it, inspect wiring and sockets for damage or corrosion. I also buff the solder end of the bulb and coat contact areas with dielectric grease. 90% of the time you will find and fix the problem, especially based on the age of your machine.
 
NEWHD74FAN said:
Older models used a thermal bi-metallic flasher, which had to heat up a metal element, relaxing the spring tension keeping internal contacts closed opening the bulb circuit...allowing metal element to cool and close the circuit, and repeating this process. Two failure modes, if the hazard lights work okay, but turn signals do not.

1) an individual bulb element(s) is bad or wrong bulb types have been substituted. 2) the flasher element is fatigued and not able to open the circuit with the lighter load of left or right filiments by themselves. Check the bulbs, all of them, by substituiton with new correct type one at a time (this is cheaper than replacing flasher) and while you are at it, inspect wiring and sockets for damage or corrosion. I also buff the solder end of the bulb and coat contact areas with dielectric grease. 90% of the time you will find and fix the problem, especially based on the age of your machine.
Click to expand...

You mean the $2.00 Wagner flasher unit?? That's what's on my '90, I believe they stopped using them in the early '90's and went to a turn signal module.
He says he switched bulbs from left to right with the same results which makes me think is a termination or socket problem
 
I have a similar problem I am trying to diagnose.

The left sides do not work at all. Rights ok. Hazards work.
I am going to try new bulbs on left front and rear first.
Anything else simple I can try if it is not the bulbs?
 
Get out a 12v. test light and start manually testing the socket and wiring.Sometimes the old fashioned way is best.
 
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