Issues With 2008 FLTR

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by fltrider08, Feb 24, 2014.

  1. fltrider08

    fltrider08 New Member

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    i have a properly maintained 2008 roadglide. i called HD last yr when bike wouldnt start and he said it was the ETC and provided a measure to reset system which ive used many times since, but no longer works. its in forced idle mode...so i think its either a sensor or the connectors are corroded. my DTC check was NONE. the diagnostic instructions said to push odometer again to check for other codes that produced Pn 67459-04C which is a tachometer. i did not check to see if it was historical yet. ive tryed everything but access the interior of the actuator module. anyone have any helpful advice short of trip to dealer? the diagnostic print-out says trip to dealer is imperative but i cant afford that route presently.
     
  2. Dr. Dolittle

    Dr. Dolittle Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    First of all, which is it? You say your bike won't start but then you say your bike is in forced idle mode, which implies it's started and running.

    Idle or limp mode can quite often be traced to corrosion and bad connections within the Throttle Control Actuator located behind the air filter. Remove the connector, clean the contacts, apply dielectric grease, and reconnect.

    Read through my thread when this happened to me:

    Replacing the Grip to TCA Harness - Harley Davidson Forums - HDTalking.com

    Jack also has a great post in this thread concerning the MOCO Service Bulleting that covered this very topic.

    Let us know how everything turns out!
     
  3. fltrider08

    fltrider08 New Member

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    thanks for the reply Dr Doolittle....i stand corrected. i have previously gone into forced idle mode repeated over the last 12-18 months. it will now not start. i did attempt to remove the connection and access the interior of the TCA but quickly realized that the connection required a special tool to avoid damaging while removing so i reluctantly surrendered. i also didnt know if id be able to reattach the back 2 clips if i removed them which would prevent a true seal. maybe ill have another go today and feel around and see if i can feel a small hole ie that i can depress as i remove connection so not to damage during disconnect. thanks for your reply...i appreciate it.
     
  4. fltrider08

    fltrider08 New Member

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    just took another look at TCA and did locate the suppression clip @ center of back side of connection. i didnt feel that before w/the 2 rises @ top&btm on same side. so i have a choice to proceed and risk breaking the clip too and ending up in the same senario as you or take to mechanic and let him risk the damage. ok...ill try. if i succeed ill only have the seal @ backside to worry about.
     
  5. Dr. Dolittle

    Dr. Dolittle Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    Those clips must be designed for a specific number of uses and I exceeded mine. :D I sure don't remember exerting any excessive force on it or doing anything else that might have broken it.
     
  6. fltrider08

    fltrider08 New Member

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    well dr d...i managed to remove it 4x carefully w/out problem so far w/70 degrees here today. its so thin its brittle and easily broken. i cleaned the connection pins w/a piece of brillo pad-reconnected w/out dielectric grease for the time being and cleared all the codes but the gods of goodwill are not smiling on me today :(