Is 21,000 miles much on an Ultra
- Thread starter Ozoneman
- Start date
My personal opinions on the lowers are that the soft lowers are the way to go here. You can put them on or off in 2 minutes and store them in the bag easily. I have them and they work great.
The rest is your choice if you need the extras or not....will you use them??? How much???
Ozoneman
Active Member
How much more would you give for the chrome forks, smooth lace wheels, chrome radio and gauge trim, chrome switches,Chrome hand grips, highway pegs, True dual with stage 1 and Screaming Eagle pipes, 3 windshield pouches, streetglide mirrors, chrome trim on tour pak, tour pak spoilier, and adjustable rider backrest?
I am asking just to see how much more you think these things would add to the value.
As far as adding to the value, most dealers only pay trade in (wholesale) for a bike when they take it in on a trade regardless of what extras they have on them. Very few if any make any extra allowances for extras so most people remove them and sell them.
You have to be the judge of what they are worth to you, keeping in mind that the previous owner is the one that paid for the parts and installation (labor) so the dealer really shouldn't get a big profit from you for these items. To most people they would be worth a few hundred under these circumstances and is the negotiable part of the deal.
The dealer will try to tell you the price is higher because of the extras but don't go for it. Offer them the regular selling price and go from there. The market is soft with a lot of bikes for sale and you can usually negotiate a good deal on something you really want.
You have to be the judge of what they are worth to you, keeping in mind that the previous owner is the one that paid for the parts and installation (labor) so the dealer really shouldn't get a big profit from you for these items. To most people they would be worth a few hundred under these circumstances and is the negotiable part of the deal.
The dealer will try to tell you the price is higher because of the extras but don't go for it. Offer them the regular selling price and go from there. The market is soft with a lot of bikes for sale and you can usually negotiate a good deal on something you really want.
Ozoneman
Active Member
The dealers in my area are selling at MSRP plus $690 for setup and freight. But some of them are offering $1,000 store credit which can be used for anything. Does that sound like a good deal to you? Should I expect a better deal than that?
Ozoneman
Active Member
How much does it cost them to put stage 1 and pipes on a new bike? Also, how much for chrome forks (parts are about $460 I think for the forks)?
Stormrider51
Active Member
Ozone,
Harley's sales are slipping and the days of their being able to charge an above-MSRP price are gone. Time was that you walked into a Harley dealership and put down a deposit for a bike that would be available some time in the future. Not anymore although some dealers would still like to sell you that idea. Every dealer around here has bikes sitting on the showroom floor and I'm talking about a bunch of them, not just one or two. As recently as a couple of months ago there were brand new 2007's left in the central Texas area. There may still be for all I know.
What I'm trying to say is that you shouldn't buy into the salesman's hype. Walk into that place with the attitude that YOU are the man with the money and if the dealer wants it they will have to work for it. Go in informed. Know what the MSRP of a given bike is and set out to pay less than that if at all possible. Get your hands on a copy of the Harley accessories catalog and if a bike you are looking at doesn't have all the things you want take the time to research how much the extras will cost. Find out if the dealer will install the extras you want free of labor charges or at least at a reduced rate as a condition of you buying the bike. After all, they will be making money on the sale of the bike and the accessories. Labor may be negotiable. Get it in writing.
Fix firmly in your mind that you don't have to buy a bike today. In fact, you shouldn't buy today. Dealerships are very good at what they do, which is sell motorcycles. They desperately want to get you to buy NOW. Make it clear that you can and will go to other dealerships and price compare. Get them to give you, in writing, the best price they can make on any bike you are interested in. Be sure what they put on paper is the total price that you will need to finance. No hidden charges. Make the salesman sign it. Then walk out (unless they have made you an offer you shouldn't refuse). At the very least ask if this is really the best deal they will make and start walking slowly for the door. The fact that you are walking toward the exit puts the salesman in the position of having to follow you and gives you a psychological advantage. He or she really doesn't want you to leave without buying. You might be pleasantly surprised to learn that what is on that piece of paper is not the actual lowest price they will take. Get the new lowest price in writing and signed by the salesman. Look it over and, unless it's too good to walk away from, head for the door again. I'm sure you get the idea. It's your money we are talking about. They'd like to make it "we've got the bike you want". Turn the tables. "I've got the money you want."
Even when you feel that you have found the best deal possible, go for more. Want to take the "Riders Edge" course? See if that can be included at no extra cost or at least at a reduced tuition. Maybe a free or reduced price first servicing? A couple of free t-shirts? Now is the time to push it. They think they have you ready to sign the papers. They can smell that money. Ask! Get it in writing! Signed!
Here's a few more things to think about:
(1) Never buy a bike you haven't ridden. If it's a used bike, ride it or walk away. If it's brand new, ride a demo bike of the same type. If the dealership doesn't have a demo bike go to another dealership that does. You can always return to the original dealership if the deal they offer is better. It would be a shame to buy a bike and discover you don't like it. (Ask me how I know this. Yep, I did it. Kawasaki Nomad.)
(2) A salesman will try to get you to mentally take possession of the bike and therefore commit to the deal. This puts him or her in the drivers seat. It can be as simple as telling you to "just keep the keys" after your test ride or offering to let you choose a t-shirt for your very own. Don't do it. That bike is theirs and you are uncommitted until the deal is to your liking.
(3) Never start off dickering for the bike you want. Always choose a cheaper, less well equipped, bike as a starting point. Salespeople are trained to sell you more bike than you need or can afford. By starting with a lesser bike you make them work for it as you move up to the bike you really want. If nothing else, say that you don't like the color and act like that is a deal-breaker. It puts you in a better negotiating position.
(4) Never go to a dealership with the intent to buy if you don't have time to hang around awhile. Working out the best deal possible takes time. Sometimes all day. Remember that keeping the salesperson tied up thinking you are a sure thing puts the odds in your favor as time goes by. If you can't take the time you will be the loser when the papers are signed.
(5) Don't go to a dealership with unrealistic expectations. Any dealer has to make a profit or they will go out of business. Either choose a bike you can afford or wait until you can afford the one you want. The idea is to make the dealer take as small a profit as possible, not a loss. They won't take a loss. Just be sure that what you did today won't land you in bankruptcy court tomorrow or have you wishing you hadn't done it.
(6) Start your quest with a monthly payment you can afford in mind. Stick to that number. I think you will find that things like interest rate and number of months will fall into line if you stick with a monthly payment you can afford.
Storm
Harley's sales are slipping and the days of their being able to charge an above-MSRP price are gone. Time was that you walked into a Harley dealership and put down a deposit for a bike that would be available some time in the future. Not anymore although some dealers would still like to sell you that idea. Every dealer around here has bikes sitting on the showroom floor and I'm talking about a bunch of them, not just one or two. As recently as a couple of months ago there were brand new 2007's left in the central Texas area. There may still be for all I know.
What I'm trying to say is that you shouldn't buy into the salesman's hype. Walk into that place with the attitude that YOU are the man with the money and if the dealer wants it they will have to work for it. Go in informed. Know what the MSRP of a given bike is and set out to pay less than that if at all possible. Get your hands on a copy of the Harley accessories catalog and if a bike you are looking at doesn't have all the things you want take the time to research how much the extras will cost. Find out if the dealer will install the extras you want free of labor charges or at least at a reduced rate as a condition of you buying the bike. After all, they will be making money on the sale of the bike and the accessories. Labor may be negotiable. Get it in writing.
Fix firmly in your mind that you don't have to buy a bike today. In fact, you shouldn't buy today. Dealerships are very good at what they do, which is sell motorcycles. They desperately want to get you to buy NOW. Make it clear that you can and will go to other dealerships and price compare. Get them to give you, in writing, the best price they can make on any bike you are interested in. Be sure what they put on paper is the total price that you will need to finance. No hidden charges. Make the salesman sign it. Then walk out (unless they have made you an offer you shouldn't refuse). At the very least ask if this is really the best deal they will make and start walking slowly for the door. The fact that you are walking toward the exit puts the salesman in the position of having to follow you and gives you a psychological advantage. He or she really doesn't want you to leave without buying. You might be pleasantly surprised to learn that what is on that piece of paper is not the actual lowest price they will take. Get the new lowest price in writing and signed by the salesman. Look it over and, unless it's too good to walk away from, head for the door again. I'm sure you get the idea. It's your money we are talking about. They'd like to make it "we've got the bike you want". Turn the tables. "I've got the money you want."
Even when you feel that you have found the best deal possible, go for more. Want to take the "Riders Edge" course? See if that can be included at no extra cost or at least at a reduced tuition. Maybe a free or reduced price first servicing? A couple of free t-shirts? Now is the time to push it. They think they have you ready to sign the papers. They can smell that money. Ask! Get it in writing! Signed!
Here's a few more things to think about:
(1) Never buy a bike you haven't ridden. If it's a used bike, ride it or walk away. If it's brand new, ride a demo bike of the same type. If the dealership doesn't have a demo bike go to another dealership that does. You can always return to the original dealership if the deal they offer is better. It would be a shame to buy a bike and discover you don't like it. (Ask me how I know this. Yep, I did it. Kawasaki Nomad.)
(2) A salesman will try to get you to mentally take possession of the bike and therefore commit to the deal. This puts him or her in the drivers seat. It can be as simple as telling you to "just keep the keys" after your test ride or offering to let you choose a t-shirt for your very own. Don't do it. That bike is theirs and you are uncommitted until the deal is to your liking.
(3) Never start off dickering for the bike you want. Always choose a cheaper, less well equipped, bike as a starting point. Salespeople are trained to sell you more bike than you need or can afford. By starting with a lesser bike you make them work for it as you move up to the bike you really want. If nothing else, say that you don't like the color and act like that is a deal-breaker. It puts you in a better negotiating position.
(4) Never go to a dealership with the intent to buy if you don't have time to hang around awhile. Working out the best deal possible takes time. Sometimes all day. Remember that keeping the salesperson tied up thinking you are a sure thing puts the odds in your favor as time goes by. If you can't take the time you will be the loser when the papers are signed.
(5) Don't go to a dealership with unrealistic expectations. Any dealer has to make a profit or they will go out of business. Either choose a bike you can afford or wait until you can afford the one you want. The idea is to make the dealer take as small a profit as possible, not a loss. They won't take a loss. Just be sure that what you did today won't land you in bankruptcy court tomorrow or have you wishing you hadn't done it.
(6) Start your quest with a monthly payment you can afford in mind. Stick to that number. I think you will find that things like interest rate and number of months will fall into line if you stick with a monthly payment you can afford.
Storm