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intro and question

trat

Member
Ok guys I'm new on the forum and also just got my first sportster. Its a 2000 1200xlc. I have been riding since I was 12 years old and I am now 67 so I have a lot of experience on motorcycles. I have had Pan Heads and shovels and Triumphs in the past but kinda got side tracked to metric bikes about 12 years ago. First a 1200 Shadow and then for the last 8 years a Yamaha Royal Star. It was a great bike but my knees are bad and getting worse so I needed a lighter bike. Hence the sportster.
My question is about cold starting. Are all sportster cold natured? This one seems to take a long time to warm up. It idles rough until it gets warm then seems to be fine but it takes about 5 or so mins before it will idle good. I might mention that it has had a mukini HRS carb put on it at some point. It may have had something else done to it as well because the vacuum line that goes to the VOES is pluged off. I have been told that if it has some aftermarket ignition that it doesn't need the VOES. I don't know if the guy that told me this is right or not. After it gets warm it runs just fine with a lot of low end torque. Any help that you could give me would be appreciated.
 
Are you using the enrichner(choke) to warm it up? If not that could be your problem. Not sure on an HRS carb. but with a CV(factory) you would leave it out fully for a minute or 2 then 1/2 way in for a 2-3 more minutes.Depends on outside temps. also If colder outside then longer on choke. Yes some after market Ign. systems have a switch on them for VOES or not. It is probably in the nose cone where you'd find the flip switch. It would also be labeled for the type of unit you have,nice too know info. Oh one more thing;Welcome to the forum
tourbox
 
Are you using the enrichner(choke) to warm it up? If not that could be your problem. Not sure on an HRS carb. but with a CV(factory) you would leave it out fully for a minute or 2 then 1/2 way in for a 2-3 more minutes.Depends on outside temps. also If colder outside then longer on choke. Yes some after market Ign. systems have a switch on them for VOES or not. It is probably in the nose cone where you'd find the flip switch. It would also be labeled for the type of unit you have,nice too know info. Oh one more thing;Welcome to the forum
tourbox
yes I use the choke but I have to hold it out. If I let go of it it goes right back in. Is there a way to make it stay out with out holding it?
 
If the choke is like the cv carbs there is a plastic ring that adds tension to the inner cable ..turn in adds the tension.
I set mine to hold open but if you give the throttle a good twist it would move in a little ...each time ..tinker with it a little.:)
 
tyre has you covered with the enricher that is marked choke....

The little Plastic round thin tention nut is very thin and only fingers tightening should be done...(located on the front side --outside --right aginst the outer housing)

If you pull the (choke) Enricher knob out, easier to get in and tighten the outer adjusting thin-face-nut and adjusting it to JUST hold tight enough for the Knob Not to go in on it's own... The plastic thin nut Will Strip or Crack easily.

YES, They do take a few Minutes to warm and run UNTIL the enricher knob can go fully in...:s

Don't be afraid to have the knob out for the first 1/2 mile OR so,,, until it runs smooth on its own... BUT don't forget and Leave it out AS It Is Not a choke but Opens a larger flow amount of RAW fuel to enter the carb,,,Less used and OFF after not needed is Best.

You can richen the carb a little (jetting change) BUT yours will not need that because of the way you described...."Warmed and it works and runs good.:D

Keep thoes knees Warm while riding.....

signed....BUBBIE
 
The mikuni hsr carb can use either the stock hd choke cable or the mikuni cable a lot of hsr kits are supplied without cable but with the plunger and spring to use with the stock cable
The stock cable has the plastic tensioner nut and gives variable opening of the valve the mikuni cable has on 2 positions on and off
My 2 big twins are fitted with mikuni hsr carbs i pull the choke knob out start the bike Put on helmet gloves etc get comfortable on bike back off the choke knob till a good idle speed is achieved and st off into town about 1 mile once i pull off from the junction in town i push the choke knob fully in and ride slowly through town bike is then good to go after that
Modern vehicles with on board management systems sensors everywhere and fuel injection will perform better in the cold due to the sophisticated management systems in place
Be aware that the evo engine should be fully warmed up prior to opening the throttle quickly due to the use of aluminium and steel components in the engine which expand at different rates the engine is not tightly sealed until full warmed up if it is pushed when cold the base gaskets may blow

Brian
 
Thanks to everyone for this help. I tightened the thin nut just a tweak and the knob stays out. Now I can let her idle and walk away, much better! Now that I know that taking a while to warm up is normal I don't worry there is something not quit right. My old Royal Star had 4 carbs and when cold I pulled out the knob started it and pushed it back in and it was good to go. I seem to remember my 59 pan used to have to warm up quite a bit before it ran smooth. But my CRS makes remembering these things hard!
 
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