Intermittent engine shut-off problems 2000 FLHTCUI
- Thread starter drj9999
- Start date
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Man,,,,
I didn't mean to toss $$$$ at it... BUT if you are doing it yourself? do it your way... it is 12/13 years old and may need some new parts:53:
I should talk,,,, :rr
I have done it this way many times ALSO... Some times I hit the empty chamber:small3d031:
Good Luck...
signed....BUBBIE
Bubbie" not to worry, I got these parts at a very low cost and I am going to do the work myself. If this doesn't do it then my next step will be the fuel pump & power relays.Man,,,,
I didn't mean to toss $$$$ at it... BUT if you are doing it yourself? do it your way... it is 12/13 years old and may need some new parts:53:
I should talk,,,, :rr
I have done it this way many times ALSO... Some times I hit the empty chamber:small3d031:
Good Luck...
signed....BUBBIE
I wanted to wait until I was certain I had determined the true problem, the proper fix, and tested it. It turns out the problem was "thin" connector wire ends on the wires running through the main circuit breaker. Being too thin & under load they would heat up and trip the main circuit breaker. By cutting, cleaning, and reapplying new connector wire ends a problem that has been present on this bike since it was brand new from the factory has disappeared. The connectors did not visually look too "thin", dirty, or have any corrosion on them. To my surprise HD in Milwaukee has been aware of this problem for years and quietly communicating the remedy to those dealerships who inquire. Amazing.....the number of hours and $'s and frustration chasing a 6 cent solution. Thanks to everyone who assisted me as it was a post on an HD forum that lead to the solution.
I encountered intermittent shutoff problems on my 2002 Road King Classic and spent a ton of money with no error codes or solution from the dealer. Finally I learned that my MAIN BREAKER was the problem. I upped it from 40 amp to 50 amp and problem stopped for me. Harley recalled alot of bikes and went to a slow burn MAXI FUSE but I never got the recall. For now the problem has ended for me. My buddy with a 2000 Electra Glide Classic had the same problem and followed the 50 amp solution and his biked stopped quitting too. Something to think about?? Good Luckl!
projectroadrage
New Member
i am new to the forums, quick info, i am an ASE certified master technician, with over a decade of in shop experience, automotive, not Motorcycles, however its all the same more or less. Harleys are my hobby. i regularly search TSB's(technical service bulletins) published by the manufacturers on vehicles i own. here are a couple i have found, i also found the relay info.
Here is one nugget of info i also discovered,
SYMPTOMS: poor idling, hunting idle (high and low mainly when cold) stalling, hard starts hot and cold. and when riding occasionally it feels like the bike cut out for a split second, or a "glitch" in the power.
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR is faulty on early fuel injected models, yes i have this problem with mine. i know about the relay issue as well.
just wanted to throw that out there in case you noticed any of these symptoms.
Here is one nugget of info i also discovered,
SYMPTOMS: poor idling, hunting idle (high and low mainly when cold) stalling, hard starts hot and cold. and when riding occasionally it feels like the bike cut out for a split second, or a "glitch" in the power.
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR is faulty on early fuel injected models, yes i have this problem with mine. i know about the relay issue as well.
just wanted to throw that out there in case you noticed any of these symptoms.
03ultra45385
Active Member
You both have multiple symtoms and based on my own experience I would do 2 things. First do this. turn key on, wait about 3to 4 seconds and start engine, then shut it off. Wait a minute, turn key on and wait about a minute then start the engine. If it starts ok both times fuel pump, filter, regulator and fuel line should be ok. If not you may have a hole in your in tank fuel line (check valve assemble). And by letting it set after the pump has cycled it will bleed down fuel preasure if there is a hole in the fuel line. I am asuming you have FI. A hole in the fuel line will show many of the symtoms you both are talking about. Low fuel preasure can wreeck havoc with a FI system. I am not saying it isn't something else, but it will quick check your fuel system. Then I would also ask your dealer to reflash your ECM. My 03 would die/shut down every time I slowed down below 1700-1800 rpm and then accelerate with moderate throttle. Around 1800 rpm it would "die/shut down" for just an instant. It would also do it if i was just starting out and going thru the first few gears with light throttle and letting the rpms drop below 1700 rpms. In either case the throttle position seemed to be an important part of the equation. My dealers tech reflashed the ecm and it hasn't done it for about 30K miles.
Sorry I'm a little late to this thread. My 04 Ultra would just shut off. Sometimes after 5 minutes of riding, sometimes after hours. I bypassed the Power Commander, and the "kill" switch. Still would turn off.
The problem appears to have been my ignition switch. I replaced it and so far so good. What it looks like is that the switch runs the ignition and accessories at one position, and only the accessories at the far right position. On the run position, the ignition contact was worn out, an only the accessories would remain on.
$75 switch later. Nice positive connection at all positions of the ignition switch now.
I took apart the switch and it appeared to have got hot, probably from bad contact. I've only ridden about 1/2 since but I have a 95% that was the problem.
I can't find my original post so, thanks to everyone who chimed in!
The problem appears to have been my ignition switch. I replaced it and so far so good. What it looks like is that the switch runs the ignition and accessories at one position, and only the accessories at the far right position. On the run position, the ignition contact was worn out, an only the accessories would remain on.
$75 switch later. Nice positive connection at all positions of the ignition switch now.
I took apart the switch and it appeared to have got hot, probably from bad contact. I've only ridden about 1/2 since but I have a 95% that was the problem.
I can't find my original post so, thanks to everyone who chimed in!