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Intermittant Electrical Gremlin

Troubleshooting is what leads you to the likely root cause...then $$$ and ease of service and probability come into play. For info only, playing worst case ...the ECM or a replacement is the "last" thing you want or should need to replace...being the better part of $899 from a discounter.

It is easy to see why it is best you troubleshoot electronics throughly and a strategy using two or three methods to use...and NOT just throw hardware at the problem...! Remember, once you buy electronic parts they are NOT returnable, so be patient and methodical.

Zipper's Cycle Thundermax ECM With Auto-Tune Closed Loop System - DennisKirk.com

Hoop & TripleJ are to be commended for being through...ohmmeter and voltage checks are non-invasive, routine cleaning, disassembly and checking for peripheral damage are fundamental.
 
Thanks for all the replies and help guy's, I will let you know the results when I get the VR replaced. I am pretty confident after hearing your thoughts that it will be fixed after that. If not I may be taking a trip to see that Dranetz meter in action :D thanks again Hoop!
 
Changed the VR this evening, cleared the codes and went for a 45 mile ride and I am happy to say so far so good. No indicator lights, no codes, no lights burning to bright or speedo shutting down :bigsmiley12:

I checked the new VR's voltage readings on the stator side and found 2 wires with 11.38 volts and one with 11.39 volts. A little higher than the voltage readings and the original VR but that may be due to battery state of charge? Point being there is definitely voltage on all 3 wires with the newer 3 phase units.

Did not see any difference in continuity between the old and new units. I am tempted to tear into the old unit to see what makes it tick but think I will save that for a rainy day - rather be riding till then.

Thanks for all the help fella's and a Great Big thanks to Hoople:ap
 
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