free website stats program intake manifold bolts - running rough | Page 2 | Harley Davidson Forums

intake manifold bolts - running rough

i have to say is the intake bolt IS NOT 1/4" straight or ball

either wiggle even in a new bolt. maybe a full .01 lash.

try a good hex on anything else on the bike even air cover: tight and exact fit.

use tools where there's lash your sure to scratch your tool up and damage the bolts even straight - a little at a time.

possibly it's bigger to allow ball to move i don't have anything to try a tight 1/4" with the ball on for you.

-------------------------
it's got metric threads manual says

it's not 4/16", not 5/16, not 7mm, not 8mm

using break pad measuring tool (am i lazy?) i see 8/32" or 6.5mm would be a tight fit (likely there's no other choice, hex bits are sold that size)

for 1/4" ball i have no idea no comment i assume the screaming eagle ball is best (unless you have a nasty frozen nut problem)

i definitely will use harley replacements unless replacement is same metal same threads specs exactly. the stiffness has to be right for it to expand and contract at the designed rate and not damage heads (too stiff). locally my only choice is harley so i have no specs to compare with, no time for mail order i gotta move the bike and don't like the carb sitting too long it might sweat :)
 
OEM parts manual shows the bolt to be SCREW 5/16-18 X 3/4 socket hd. (Grade 8) | ALL
The SE tool you speak of is not that good for extra tight manifold bolts. I have broken the ratchet part on mine already. I have been using a long 3/8 drive 1/4 Ball end since with a ratchet.
tourbox
 
i did mess up i fell asleep before changing it. your welcome.

ok i was talking about removal not replacement. i was told by HD parts: (5/16 .3125 dia)-18x(tpi)3/4" length UNCoarse as spec by harley parts, it says GRD 8 on it. but without metal type one wouldn't know if it'd rust or it's expansion rate: so i wouldn't use just that for replacement.

The SE tool you speak of is not that good for extra tight manifold bolts. I have broken the ratchet part on mine already. I have been using a long 3/8 drive 1/4 Ball end since with a ratchet.

i'm opposite. i scratched up my long ball 1/4" (usable maybe) thinking if it worked on lower two it'd break (no, as i feared they are way too tight). but was too in a hurry to wait for harley tool to arrive. was!

as i said thought on or off bike the 1/4" ball wiggles in head. because utube and tool places say 1/4" i was surprised

now back to wiggle

ok i was talking about removal not replacement. i was told by HD parts: (5/16 .3125 dia)-18x(tpi)3/4" length UNCoarse as spec by harley parts, it says GRD 8 on it. but without metal type one wouldn't know if it'd rust or it's expansion rate: so i wouldn't use just that for replacement.

i do have vance/hines pipe kit someoen else installed but as far as i know that wouldn't change intake bolt parts gives me.

again: when i use snapon or matco SAE hex or Torx from a set on other things they fit tight. that's why i was stumped when i couldn't find anything whole size metric or SAE on that hex that fits the way a tool is supposed to.

so that's .255" or 0.6477 mm. that means my tool will wiggle

i dont' know the answer here - special tool i don't know of that isn't really 1/4" ?

if i do the gasket regularly 1/4" will do "ok" if i replace bolts (are cheap) when they get worse, if not i can use use a cut-off tool no big deal. i'd use a cheap hex bit because i'd never ruin a good tool (ie, snapon) by using the wrong tool for the job.

if i'm wrong please correct me. i'd love to know more. i plan on doing this job every few years to avoid "frozen head bolt" problem and or poor performance problems !

i don't see any tools i can buy that'd be .005 different from 1/4 or 6.5mm - far as i know - that will fit right for clean removal / install every time.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
When you do get the bolts out
41EnadiDoxL._AA160_.jpg

use this:s
 
sportster 2001 said:
i don't see any tools i can buy that'd be .005 different from 1/4 or 6.5mm - far as i know - that will fit right for clean removal / install every time.
Click to expand...

Is it possible the bolt heads are already rounded from using the wrong tool? This can be frustrating, since you have limited room to work. I have had luck putting a dab of antisieze on the driver end, this gives you more turning torque, less chance of slipping and stripping the inside of the fastener
 
Jack Klarich said:
Is it possible the bolt heads are already rounded from using the wrong tool? This can be frustrating, since you have limited room to work. I have had luck putting a dab of antisieze on the driver end, this gives you more turning torque, less chance of slipping and stripping the inside of the fastener
Click to expand...

A little lapping compound works well too.
 
there was very little clearance to cut bolts out. but with care and a small cutoff tool: done. intake gaskets did have small holes.

but after re-assembly it still leaks same place: right where body connects with flange.

unfortunately i didn't get flanges (usually should replace) - which can be bent. very hard to tell if bent they are cupped style. the auto parts people spoiled me some i think. i will NOT fix this by over-tightening screws ! the head seems flat if i put a razor on it on end. intake body seems "perfect"

there is that issue of the intake body being movable and i mystified why it wouldn't leak. after tightening it should not move, but one shouldn't over-tighten either.

if after replacing all parts it leaks then i'll resort to some kind of sealer ? i now that won't work well or not be as easy as one thought to stop leak.

i'd avoid replacing a head (maybe head is not flat)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top