(intake leaks make a harley run very lean / rough / no middle accel and rough otherwise) how do i crack my nuts ? i got my bike apart down to intake bolts. i found the size of bolts was ? 5/16 " or 4/16". many suggested using Ball Hex 1/4" (screaming eagle intake bolt tool). i got a matco 1/4" ball hex long and a couple of 1/4" wrenches if needed (oops but should work). i'm unsure if 5/16" is the "straight allen" size. 1/4 straight wiggles (not tight is bad) and i've seen people say 5/16" or 1/4" ball. (does one use 1/4" ball in a 5/16" ?) bolts are very tight. my tool won't crack the nut i think even though it's a matco it will break the tool first. i don't think it's ever been off since 2001 OR prev. owner put on Vines pipes and overtightened? way too tight but also leaking bad ! if i used a cheap tool it might strip bolts.if i damage nut i'd have to cut out intake manifold, drill, back out - a real bear - may end up taking out engine + trans if not lucky. the nut is NOT STIFF, it's soft (good for aluminum, bad for me) if i damage anything else i'd need new heads ! heads are aluminum, easy to damage (by head, pounding, overtightening) options i know are (1) heat it up and try (but it's aluminum i don't wanna warp anything) (2) take engine + trans out for better access and hope that's enough (trapped in V will still be a problem unless i pull off heads (aka, get wiggle room / wiggle ability)) (3) cut intake body so i can use ? 5/16" is it ? , buy intake body from Harley parts does anyone have better ideas ? happy ridin and thx for any tips ! i'm an auto mechanic cars don't use small bolts on head. i would have limped moded the bike to the harley dealer had i known what kind of trap it can be if they nuts are too tight. i'd suggest to anyone let a master harley mech do it 1st time if the nut might be frozen and then do it at home every ~ 2 years, screaming eagle tool, for great smooth running and rides.