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Initial break-in canned map??

wglide85

Member
I have purchased the Super Tuner, but have not yet broken the factory seal. I am going to give it to the tech at the Harley shop to install a canned map. This is temporary and will have it on the dyno, but require a break in period first.

Heads ported polished 1.9 intake, stock size exhaust.
107”
Andrews 54hg
Thunderheader 2-1
K&N Air Cleaner 63-1122

I do understand Harley will only have maps for their setup. In the area I am located I am limited to the tuners/dyno’s. One shop has blown up three bikes, going to shy away from them. Another only wants to use PowerCommanders and I want to keep the closed loop system.

With the above knowledge would the CVO 110” map keep from running too lean until a dyno tune is done?
Does anyone have a suggestion as to the canned map I should have the Harley tech install to ensure I am not lean initially?

Plus I have been told Harley will not tune the bike to say 13.8 or 14.1 AFR, but will force me to accept the 14.7, is there any truth to this? As I did not get that impression when speaking with the tech at the shop.
 
Custom map is what it is, it will be leaner at lower rpms and throuttle position as needed and richer the at higher rpms and wide open throutlle positions. The dyno is easier on the bike then the street, really, but the dyno is a tool and only as good as the tech operating it, sounds like you've done your research on the local tech's, that's smart, I have always done a dyno break-in on new engine work rather then have somebody drive a untuned bike for 1,000 miles, but everyone has there own thoughts on that, all you can do is search out the best shop in your area and put your trust in them, they will know the best canned map to put in. Keep us posted how it all comes out, I sure you'll be very happy with the results.
 
The dyno tech had what he called a break-in map and did have to change the displacement settings and then across the map bumped up the richness.

I put on one hundred miles, changing oil at forty-eight miles. Did some roll-ons accelerations letting the engine slow the ride back down. Talk about the smile factor, but the damn EPA has cost me a lot of money. Compared to stock, this bike runs great and is not even tuned yet.
 
I want to keep the closed loop system.

With the above knowledge would the CVO 110” map keep from running too lean until a dyno tune is done?

l not tune the bike to say 13.8 or 14.1 AFR, but will force me to accept the 14.7, is there any truth to this? .

The truth is if you want to keep the closed loop system you will be running 14.5.
Closed loop means you are using the O2 sensors. If you use the O2 sensors you will be at 14.5. That is the bottom line.

Want my advice. Use the 110 map. Copy and paste the entire rear cylinder VE table to the front VE map. You will not be lean.
If your compression has increased, your ion knock sensor most likely will not be accurate. Reduce any front and rear advance timing cells to a maximum of 36 degrees.
Your gas mileage WILL be effected. You can't have both. But your engine will be happy. These numbers will protect you until you have the time to do it correctly using your VCI recorder and a wide band O2 sensor.

Almost forgot... Also increase both VE tables at 90 & 100 percent throttle by 8 percent from 750 RPM to redline.
Increase both VE tables at 0 percent throttle from 750-1150 RPM by ~7%.

That should keep it happy till you can have time to make it perfect!:p
 
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The initial break in map which was put in turned out to be very close to the final custom map. I ended up with 116/103, thought I’d be slightly higher, but very respectful. I decided to also install the Accel Autotune SLM05. Gave them a call along with emailing another person very involved with the product and liked what I heard. I will get it on the dyno again after about a month just for a comparison.
 
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