Info on exhaust and tuner ect

[Heavy Metal]

Have a 2015 Fat BOB was curious about the following.

Anyone have an opinion on the following products?

RSR Air/Fuel O2 Gauge RBRacing LSR 2-1 2" turn out.

Steve Cole's TTS MasterTune.

Any input on these?

 

[dolt]

Have a 2015 Fat BOB was curious about the following:

Anyone have an opinion on the following products?
RSR Air/Fuel O2 Gauge
RBRacing LSR 2-1 2" turn out.
Steve Cole's TTS MasterTune.
Any input on these?

Not sure why you ask about an AFR meter for a fuel injected bike when what you need is a fuel management system like the TTS Mastertune. IMHO, the TTS Mastertune and the DJ Power Vision are the two best fuel management systems for modified motors on the market today. Modified, to me means, big bore, high compression, long cams, ported heads, etc., there are other systems suitable for Stage I or II motors, like the V&H FP3 or Dobeck TFI.

The LSR 2:1 pipe would not be my recommendation for a "street" build. It is a high rpm horsepower pipe that makes lots of noise and many that are go for the look of the pipe are disappointed in the performance which is non existent below 3500rpms.

Don't know what plans you have for your Dyna but if you post the plan, you will get some specific suggestions..........

 

[Heavy Metal]

Basically thinking of going up to a 117 or 124(126), cams for low end more than too end for more acceleration than top speed and mainly just for fun.

 

[dbmg]

Have you consider the need for upgrading clutch and drive train, starter etc. when upgrading engine???

 

[dolt]

Basically thinking of going up to a 117 or 124(126), cams for low end more than too end for more acceleration than top speed and mainly just for fun.

Don't stop at 117", the additional marginal cost to go to 124" is worth it. You will need some 110+, HD MVA heads to be worked; the chambers on stock 96"/103" heads are too small and compression will be near12:1; OK for a drag racer but not so much for a daily driver. Keep compression reasonable, 10:5 or thereabouts and starter/battery should be fine. You have ACRs, so that is working for ya. Of course, clutch will need attention; a Bandit unit will address that. A 124" motor requires some serious planning and if seriousy considering going that route, you should be looking at a S&S crate 124; the low compression unit. It will likely cost you more to build a dependable 124 than it would to install a crate motor.

Still think you should consider the new HD 110" drop in package; set up right, it will deliver 125/125 numbers.

 

[Heavy Metal]

Really thinks of a 111 going to cause the bore matches the stroke and makes it smoother.

100 and 143 also are two others that the bore and stroke match each other.

 

[dolt]

Really thinks of a 111 going to cause the bore matches the stroke and makes it smoother. 100 and 143 also are two others that the bore and stroke match each other.

Bore and stroke doesn't matter; the assembly can be balanced. Those combinations are unconventional for the HD vtwin; you are spitting in the wind.