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ignition problem help please

BIG OX

New Member
My 05 Dyna lowrider was running great when I rode her to work when I went to leave my bike wouldn't start she has a new battery that's maybe 2 weeks old its holding a charge and reading above 12v I have power when I turn the key to accessories but lose all power when I turn the key to ignition/on position I thought it was the ignition switch so I tried to bypass it wit a toggle switch no luck so I found a new ignition switch and tried it no luck so I went straight to the plug and used a wire to check but its doing the same thing power at accessories but nothing at ignition in fact I hooked up my multimeter to the battery slight drop in power on accessories but the battery drops to zero when turned to ignition then returns after the key is returned to the off position hope this is enough info
 
Try checking the ignition fuse, I believe it's a 15 amp. If it was running prior it probably is something simple. If that's not the problem, hopefully others will chime in with other solutions.
 
check for voltage at the lead lugs of the battery, not the screws. If you still have voltage with the key on remove the cables sand the ends and re install, if the battery voltage itself drops to zero with the extra load of the ignition circuit you have a bad battery. Let us know what you find.
 
Clean and tighten all cables to include at the starter. Load test the fully charged battery, new does not always mean good.
 
Take a look here from the self help section.
  1. Step by Step Instructions for Testing Your Harley’s Charging System

    1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

    2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

    3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

    4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
    • AC Output Check:
    1. Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
    2. Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
    3. Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
    4. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
    5. Generic Specs:
    • 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
    • 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
    • 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
    • Stator Resistance Check:
    1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
    2. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
    3. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
    4. Generic Specs:
    • 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
    • 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
    • 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
    • Stator IB test or Ground Check:
    1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
    2. Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
    3. There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
    4. If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
    5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
    • Identifying Wires:
    1. Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
    2. AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
    3. Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
    • Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
    • Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
    1. Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
    2. Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
    3. Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
    4. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
    5. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
    6. The reading should be Infinite.
    7. With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
    8. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
    9. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
    10. The reading should be Infinite.
    11. Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
    Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
    AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
    AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
    Battery charge lead AC output 1 ∞
    Battery charge lead AC output 2 ∞
    Ground AC output 1 Voltage
    Ground AC output 2 Voltage
    AC output 1 Ground ∞
    AC output 2 Ground ∞
    Replacement Components
    Batteries
    350-430 (97-09 FLT, FLH, FLHT Dressers)
    350-431 (82-94 FXR, 84-90 Softail, 71-86 FX, 79-96 XL)
    350-432 (91-09 Softail, 97-09 Dyna, 97-03 XL)
    350-433 (80-96 FLT, FLHT, 93-96 FLHR)

    Stators:
    380-864 (L84-90 XL)
    240-556 (91-06 XL)
    381-259 (70-75 Big Twin 15 Amp)
    381-084 (76-80 Big Twin17.8 Amp)
    381-260 (81-88 Big Twin 22Amp)
    381-202 (89-99 Big Twin 32 Amp)
    381-596 (00 Softail, 99-03 Dyna)
    381-594 (99-01 Touring)
    381-595 (02-05 Touring)

    Regulators: (Offered in Chrome and Black, Black Part numbers listed below)

    380-798 (84-85 XL)
    381-177 (86-90 XL)
    381-014 (91 XL)
    380-797 (92-93 XL)
    380-485 (94-03 XL)
    381-835 (04-06 XL)
    383-089 (07 XL)
    381-252 (70-75 Big Twin)
    381-328 (76-80 Big Twin)
    381-327 (81-88 Big Twin)
    381-277 (89-99 Big Twin)
    381-605 (00 Softail)
    381-603 (97-01 Touring)
    381-606 (00-03 Dyna)
    Rotors:
    380-373 (70-06 Big Twin 18, 22, 32 Amp Systems)
    380-374 (95-06 Big Twin 38 Amp Systems)
    380-375 (97-05 Big Twin 45/48 Amp Systems)
    383-640 (84-90 XL)
    383-641 (91-03 XL)
    383-642 (04-09 XL) Look here first you have a charging issue more than likely a bad regulator
    You can check for a ground with a test light, hook up positive to battery, any thing you touch with probe end of test light that has a ground will light the tester, keep in mind regulators lose their ground thru the mount to the frame USE new star washers and scrape the frame to bare metal and coat it with dilectric grease,


help section
 
Thanks everybody turns out that 2week old battery had a dead cell I really appreciate all the help and quick responses
 
I hate electrical I'm so bad with it so I really appreciate the help it really seemed to me that it was the ignition, wasn't until late last night when I was thoroughly . . . frustrated that I checked the voltage in the on position but by that point I was to rattled to put 2 & 2 together so thank you all again
 
Starting with the basics will sometimes save a lot of headaches.
Good to hear you got it figured out.
 
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