Ignition/Fork lock removal 2008 Ultra

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by Biffy08, Feb 24, 2012.

  1. Biffy08

    Biffy08 Active Member

    Hope all is well with everyone! I have recently seen a lot of post going out to old and some new threads about handlebar replacement on Ultra's.
    I have a 2008 Ultra that I purchased 1" Paul Yaffe 10" apehangers. I have had a few friends tell me that I won't be able to internally run the control wires, including the throttle fly-by-wire in these 1" bars. I spoke to Paul Yaffe himself and he insists that if I follow his provided directions, the wire will go through, and I won't have to do any extending because there is enough length on the stock harnesses. I have to believe that he knows what he is talking about!
    My question for all you "wrench-heads" is about the fork lock/ignition. His directions start with after the stock handlebars have been removed. The HD manual says to use special tools (I don't have my manual in front of me to know those tool part #'s) for removing the ignition/fork lock, but Paul Yaffe's Service Manager says that a small pick type tool will access the release button on the underside of the ignition/lock, and that the other tool to remove the ignition connector is not necessary to perform.
    Can anyone give some advice? I don't want to pay someone or HD $500 - $1000 to do this; what sounds like a fairly easy job, although it will be time consuming. Thanks all!:newsmile09:
  2. dbmg

    dbmg Experienced Member

  3. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 25, 2012
  4. Biffy08

    Biffy08 Active Member

    Thanks dbmg for the quick reply! I appreciate it greatly! I still don't know why Yaffe is telling me that I do not need to remove the connector. Of course I am not looking at my bike at this point. I first need to get to this point.:( and it has been a long work we so I hope the weekend is fruitful!

    :DCool Jack. You guys really make me believe that there are some real people left in this world! You guys also make this forum great!
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 25, 2012
  5. Iceman24

    Iceman24 Well-Known Member

    Yep, few $$$ worth of copper, bend/flatten & you've got yourself a $100 HD ignition tool...less the $95 HD logo...:s
  6. brownfoxx1

    brownfoxx1 Active Member

    i'm installing the same on my '09 t/g. when pulling the wireing thru the bars. you have to use a screwdrver to push down on the FBY connector to get it to go by the corner pinch in the bars. you also will need a 12" drag FBW extension. (dealer had this on the wall. either the 12 or 15" will work fine.
    OEM wireing is long enough. but will need longer clutch cable. i've got a 4" over on order w/dealer & will be in fri. so we'll see.
    you will also need a 1/4" metric allen wrench cut off about 2" & glued in a
    1/4"drive socket. for riser bolts R&R.
    also a 3/16 cut off about 1 " glued in a socket also a 3/16 long Ball socket allen wrench (radio R&R)
    on radio lt side i had to use(short) water pump pliers to get the bolts out.
    so after the radio was out i drilled about a 7/16 hole forward of the existing oblonged hole in order to get a 1'4" extension thru to tighten up the front bolts.(useing the glued 3/16 a/w in a 1/4drive socket)otherwise the holes just don't line up .
    also 3/16 allen wrench with short end cut off about 3/16 cut off and by the
    time you true it up. (for tranny) lower bolts.
    when you take out the radio you will see that there is a plastic lip under the front edge of the radio that covers up the front riser bolts.(which would require you to remove the ign switch & pull that section forward a bit.
    got guts?? if you grill 2 holes about 1/2" above the riser bolts then you can
    remove the riser mount bolts3/4" 6pt shallow socket needed. then the handle bars & risers will come out as a unit. the right riser bolt is accessed by turning the handle bars far right. and got in thru the frontof the fairing.

    looks like my expenses are bars,transmission gasket & o-ring. 4"over clutch cable. FBW 12" extension. less than $50.00
    also while you have the ft. fairing off grease the neck bearings. mine took a-lot of grease ( then kleenex cleanup after the pressure equalized.)
    i also parked my trike under a ceiling tress so i could tie a string over it & used it to hold the inner fairing up as i worked.
    also get a tube of diaelectric grease & unplug all connectors & give them a dab og grease. also do the fuse box area. just a update.

    i forgot i'm doeing the 10" p/y bagger bars. if i'm right the ape hangers have a 90degree bend in them at the top. if so you may NOT be able to get the
    TBW extension to pull thru.( even though is is a small connection)
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 27, 2012
  7. Biffy08

    Biffy08 Active Member

    Thanks brownfoxx1, I will take this into consideration. I did swear that the next time I needed to access the clutch cover I would cut an allen key so I don't need to remove the exhaust. I hope I can still do that! I have the round tube 10" yaffe apehangers so there is not the 90 degree bend in the top of the bar. I think if you had bought the install kit from yaffe it will come with all the wire needed as well as the extended clutch cable and brake lines.