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How long does it take to change a stator?

ironmark

Junior Member
Well my stator is out so the bike is going in to the shop for the R&R. What I need to know is how many shop hour does HD charge to do the stator R&R, the reason I need this info is under the HD ESP the stator R&R is covered so I only have to pay the $50 deductible, but sense the inner & outer primary is already torn down and put together on HD money I am looking into having the drive belt replaced at this time and just paying the extra in parts and labor, the drive belt has 50K on it so this would be the best time IMO, I just need to find out what the fair charge in labor cost would be to R&R the rear tire & swing arm assembly.
 
Is the drive belt damaged? How many miles on the belt?
 
I was thinking that if someone had this R&R done at a HD dealer that the labor cost would be on the receipt.
 
Is the drive belt damaged? How many miles on the belt?

A little over 50,000 on the belt, no damage that I am aware of just thinking that sense HD is paying to tear the primary down and put it back together that it would be the best time to do this preventive maintenance. If the belt breaks because of wear at a later time then I would have to pay for the complete R&R.
 
To replace the drive belt is more then you are thinking. To change the stator you can cheat a bit sometimes and not take the clutch out. To change the drive belt involves removing the clutch and the inner primary cover and then removing the rear wheel assembly and and lower shock mount then dropping the swing arm. I bet a good tech can do a stator change in less then 3 hours and a belt change would take 6 or 7 hours. If your belt has been properly maintained it should go over a 100,000 easily.
Ken
 
To replace the drive belt is more then you are thinking. To change the stator you can cheat a bit sometimes and not take the clutch out. To change the drive belt involves removing the clutch and the inner primary cover and then removing the rear wheel assembly and and lower shock mount then dropping the swing arm. I bet a good tech can do a stator change in less then 3 hours and a belt change would take 6 or 7 hours. If your belt has been properly maintained it should go over a 100,000 easily.
Ken

According to the 08 touring service manual the inner primary has to be removed to access the stator so if that is the case the clutch would come off anyways.
 
Here's is Harley's times & codes for a 2008 FLT, this is what harley pays when it's warranty work done in the first two years and ESP pays the shop 1.25 times the warranty rated hrs. under their plan.

NOTE: All codes include diagnostic time and replacement time.

Replace secondary belt Time Code 2011 Hrs. 3.7
Diagnose charging system (open grounded stator) Time Code 5312 Hrs. 1.8
This is what the dealer gets from Harley and 1.25 times the labor if the Harley warrant has pasted and the work is done under your ESP plan, but if you walk in off the street and the money is coming out of your pocket expect to pay 3 hrs. for a stator replacement and 4-6 hrs. for a belt replacement. Thats what I charge also and feel it's fair because that about how long it takes me to do the work, acourse dealer techs move faster then I do because their on flat rate, and younger. lol
 
Here's is Harley's times & codes for a 2008 FLT, this is what harley pays when it's warranty work done in the first two years and ESP pays the shop 1.25 times the warranty rated hrs. under their plan.

NOTE: All codes include diagnostic time and replacement time.

Replace secondary belt Time Code 2011 Hrs. 3.7
Diagnose charging system (open grounded stator) Time Code 5312 Hrs. 1.8
This is what the dealer gets from Harley and 1.25 times the labor if the Harley warrant has pasted and the work is done under your ESP plan, but if you walk in off the street and the money is coming out of your pocket expect to pay 3 hrs. for a stator replacement and 4-6 hrs. for a belt replacement. Thats what I charge also and feel it's fair because that about how long it takes me to do the work, acourse dealer techs move faster then I do because their on flat rate, and younger. lol


This is the way I look at it, it takes a certian amout of time to do the stator repair which include the R&R of both the outer and inner primary. It takes certain amount of time to do a drive belt R&R, the only difference would be the rear wheel R&R and the swing arm R&R which I would think would not take over 1 hour labor time, the resone I think this is a fair estimente of the time is that there are only 2 main bolts 1 through the axle and 1 through the swing arm granted the tranny need to be supported and the disk brakes need to be removed freom the swing arm but the brake line doesn't have to disconnected. I don't mind pay a fair price for the work being done to my bike I just don't want to be taken advantage of.
 
Asking the dealer to do extra when they are already working in the area might surprise you with extra charges.

I had 4th gear go out on my '02 Sportster. Nothing in the service manual that sounded like my problem so I took the bike in for repair at my dealer. Nothing wrong in 8 years so I thought that was pretty good.

They tore down the tranny and had all the parts on the cart for me to see, including the gear and all the recovered gear parts that went bad. (Looked like material failure in the gear. You could see little cracks deep in the gear.)

The clutch was removed to work on the tranny and was sitting on the cart with everything else.
I made a comment of "I wonder how the clutch looks?" After all, I had 40K on the bike.
Service manager said it would only take 5 minutes to check it. Sounded good to me, after all, it was already removed as part of the gear replacement and was sitting on the cart.

Looking (inspecting they called it) became another work procedure and going by the manual, I was charged $93 for that "5 minute look".

I questioned the charge but didn't get very far. I'll be careful next time to not let them open another work procedure. I've been lucky as the tranny gear was 1st thing that ever went wrong.

Oh yeah.... the original clutch was fine and placed back into the bike. If I'd known that, I would have bought a new clutch pack if they were charging for the work operation.

Best to keep in the same work operation and maybe not deviate from the warranty work as it may allow extra charges to you.
All depending on your dealer.....
 
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