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Brian, with the hole being tapped thruhole, I would be worried about somehow bolt going in would catch helicoil and drive it in further possibly all the way into the pan, but if it worked that is fine. I like the idea of the Time Sert but the price is way out of line. And using a piggy backed worked in this case or inner nut locking insert plug works, if you pull the pan when I was in automotive working on auto xmissions! So yes, "Emergency" mode will certainly get those creative juices flowing to be sure...:D
 
When using a helicoil in this type of situation i use something to lock it into place in the past have usually used araldite (epoxy resin) to glue the helicoil
to the desired position but im sure locktite would do the same job worked without problem on both a bmw and a motto guzzi bevel box
i have also done a couple of cylinder heads spark plug threads dry and they stayed in place as far as im aware (but that was on cars)did them in 1988 still got the kit have had no use for it since then

Brian
 
Striping the threads out is almost always caused by over tightening the plug. The torque spec. is 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). Thats not real tight.
Borrow a torque wrench and get a feel for it. A timesert or helicoil would be the best repair. the o-ring on the plug is what makes the seal. The plug needs to be just tight enough so it doesn't fall out.
 
WYW has the right idea, while Helicoil would work with blind sealed hole, the metal insert is open to the oild so simple insert will not work. Simply drill and tap or use oversize drain plug (they also make them with magnet) is the best fix. And don't forget to make a note not to overtighten it...most common cause! I also use a fiber washer rather than metal one or the silly o-ring which to me is too small surface area and deteriorate too fast...

I have wondered about this. Tell me more about this washer. In looking at and replacing the o-rings, I have wondered whether or not this was the best HD could come up with for the drain plugs.:33:
 
I have wondered whether or not this [o-ring] was the best HD could come up with for the drain plugs.
Why not? It works, and is inexpensive and mind-numbingly simple to keep freshened-up.

If they're too expensive at the Harley shop, next time you pick one up, take and show it to the guy working on the forklifts at the loading dock at work. He'll probably outright give you a fistful of them if you say good morning and strike up a conversation.
 
I'm a retired toolmaker and have been reading this threat and I must say there are quite a few inovative way to correct the original problem re. stripped threads. While helicoil does require some type of thread locker in thru holes, there is a threat restorer that is made for thru holes is enexpensive and will not leak. I have personnaly used the keensert on many stripped holes in aluminum, plastic and steel and have never had one fail. They do not require special taps or tools and can be bought at most fastener outlets. Google keensert see if this will help you solve your stripped hole problems.
 
Update to my stripped thread issue:

Well the pepboys fix was worthless... the piggyback self tapping plug was too hard to thread in straight so I bagged that idea. Ended up drilling out the hole with a 1/2" step drill bit (by hand obvious as the pan was still on the bike). And tapped the hole with a 14mmx1.5 tap. Dumpped about 6 quarts of about 1,000 mile old oil through the engine. Then ordered a 1" extension and a Fumoto quick drain valve (see pic) now I am back in business. This was no doubt the best option in lieu of a timesert/helicoil. I red loctited the extension into the pan so I never intend to remove that and if there in an issue with the fumoto valve I can remove that from the extension and replace.
 

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I am using the fumoto valve on my diesel truck. Nice and handy for oil changes and if you want to drain a cup of oil out for analysis it is not messy to do. If I ever strip my drain plug out on the bike that would give me an excuse to get the Baker + 1 oil pan.
kemo
 
Update to my stripped thread issue:

Well the pepboys fix was worthless... the piggyback self tapping plug was too hard to thread in straight so I bagged that idea. Ended up drilling out the hole with a 1/2" step drill bit (by hand obvious as the pan was still on the bike). And tapped the hole with a 14mmx1.5 tap. Dumpped about 6 quarts of about 1,000 mile old oil through the engine. Then ordered a 1" extension and a Fumoto quick drain valve (see pic) now I am back in business. This was no doubt the best option in lieu of a timesert/helicoil. I red loctited the extension into the pan so I never intend to remove that and if there in an issue with the fumoto valve I can remove that from the extension and replace.

NOW THAT IS NICE!!!!!!!

I kept silent for once and JUST READ..... ALL GOOD SUGGESTIONS FROM A GREAT BUNCH OF MEMBERS AND MODS....

but i can't help my self....

signed ....BUBBIE THE WELDER
 
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