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There is always the universal drain plug that has a rubber center and a bolt that expands it as it is tightened in the hole. Its a lot like the old Univ freeze plugs.
 
nO HELICOIL, YOU NEED SOMETHING FOR THOS TO BOTTOM OUT AGAINST, IT WOULD JUST FALL RIGHT INTO THE OIL PAN.

Huh? if that's true, why hasn't my helicoiled sparkplug threads fallen into my cylinders in the last 10 years? It's been a long time since I've installed one, but I think the insert has some kind of tang that the insert tool locks into the host metal? :33:
 
Now for the lesson learned... I will use my 4" stubby ratchet wrench for secure all oil drain plugs going forward instead of my 12" Flex Head Snap-on ratchet and also only change the oil when I actually have enough time to do so.

Best bet to prevent a reoccurance is use a torque wrench. It helps to prevent brain cramps and aggravation.
 
The problem with over sized self tapping plugs and aluminum is there might not be enough boss area to support the new cut in threads and u could end up with a crack or a leak I do like the piggy back set up it worked great on Ford drain plugs for years
 
There's also a unit available in auto parts stores for stripped drain plugs that is oversize for the size of your drain and it will cut it;s own threads in the pan. The bolt in the middle of this unit removes to drain the oil after installing this.

Looks like this...

1005.jpg
 
That would be the piggy back unit Glider and yes I bet u and I have used this many times in the past especially on automotive drain plugs I still stock these Auto Center in The Sears Auto center I run They have saved me a lot of problems
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I took your advice and did some additional research. Looks like I have a lot of options here...

After much consideration I have decided to get a piggyback single oversized self tapping oil drain plug, I have also decided to purchase a Fumoto drain valve which I will hook into the piggy back plug on the self tapping drain plug. I am opting for the Fumoto, because I am afraid that even with retapping with the oil plug I may still have issues in the future. With the Fumoto I will never have to remove the plug. Based on the longevity (i plan to ride about 500 miles then reassess) of this fix I may just JB weld the self tapping plug in place.

Now for the lesson learned... I will use my 4" stubby ratchet wrench for secure all oil drain plugs going forward instead of my 12" Flex Head Snap-on ratchet and also only change the oil when I actually have enough time to do so.




Glad you got that sorted, yes I have used a similar product only one secured on the inside of the oil pan...for an automatic transmission, hated the mess of changing out a filter screen and draining by dropping the pan on Ford C4 & C6 transmissions back in the day (not bashing as most auto xmissions by major makes were the same). :small3d018: Even our HD derby cover oil change system could have been improved, but that is another story...
 
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The Helicoil has been in use since WWII when aluminum was finding many uses in aircraft, but stainless bolts would pull through soft aluminum allow threads. Helicoil relies on an inner tang at the bottom of the insert, locked to insertion tool to thread it in, but relies on the blind solid bottom of the hole to stop it and allow the tang to "break". Technically a regular drill is used to start, but a squared off drill is used to finish the hole so the bottom is flat and not dimpled, so the helicoil will come to a positive stop and break off the tang.

I have used thread inserts (helicoil) on a few occasions to do a repair of this type as far as im aware none of these have failed
put loctite on the thread insert screw it in to place allow loctite to set then use a needle nose plyers to break the tang off so you dont lose it inside

Brian
 
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