Help!

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by Sadist112, Oct 24, 2009.

  1. Sadist112

    Sadist112 Active Member

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    I'll save the story because I won't be able to comply with Glider's strict language rules...

    I stripped my oil drain plug any thoughts????
     
  2. Drumrguy

    Drumrguy Account Removed

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    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2009
  3. Drumrguy

    Drumrguy Account Removed

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    nO HELICOIL, YOU NEED SOMETHING FOR THOS TO BOTTOM OUT AGAINST, IT WOULD JUST FALL RIGHT INTO THE OIL PAN.
     
  4. whatyardwork

    whatyardwork Banned

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    Personaly I would visit the local hardware and purchase a shallow bolt and a tap 1 size up.
     
  5. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    WYW has the right idea, while Helicoil would work with blind sealed hole, the metal insert is open to the oild so simple insert will not work. Simply drill and tap or use oversize drain plug (they also make them with magnet) is the best fix. And don't forget to make a note not to overtighten it...most common cause! I also use a fiber washer rather than metal one or the silly o-ring which to me is too small surface area and deteriorate too fast...
     
  6. buck484

    buck484 Active Member Contributor

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    I did the same thing last year and the time sert was a miracle. Its been about a year and, thanks to the advise on this site, I am ridin and smilin. Thanks again all.
     
  7. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    Thank you Smitty, yes looking at the Time-sert since it has a top shoulder to stop bushing from threading all the way into the hole...I stand corrected.

    The Helicoil has been in use since WWII when aluminum was finding many uses in aircraft, but stainless bolts would pull through soft aluminum allow threads. Helicoil relies on an inner tang at the bottom of the insert, locked to insertion tool to thread it in, but relies on the blind solid bottom of the hole to stop it and allow the tang to "break". Technically a regular drill is used to start, but a squared off drill is used to finish the hole so the bottom is flat and not dimpled, so the helicoil will come to a positive stop and break off the tang.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2009
  8. SledDog

    SledDog Senior Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Drill and tab one size up as others have said. It's easy to do. Just remember to flush the oil pan at least 2 twice. You can easily find a plug to fit the new hole.
     
  9. cavs1429

    cavs1429 Member

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    dont know if it will work on a motorcycle. but i stripped the plug on my car and just went down to the auto parts store and for $ 3.00 dollars bought a self tapping oil drain plug works just fine.
     
  10. Sadist112

    Sadist112 Active Member

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    Thanks for all the help guys. I took your advice and did some additional research. Looks like I have a lot of options here...

    1) The most expensive, replace the pan.
    2) Time Sert $105 on ebay (not really what I want to spend $105 on)
    3) Autozone, PepBoys, etc get a "single oversized self tapping oil drain plug" (I have read online these things work great)
    4) If it is really bad, I could get a "double oversized self tapping oil drain plug (they even come with magnet plugs that are self tapping).
    5) Even better yet there are piggy back oversized self tapping oil drain plugs (see picture) You essentially replace the drain plug with the self tapping plug and utilize the "piggyback" plug 1/4" plug for drainage.
    6) JB weld in a Fram Sure Drain or Fumoto drain valve in place.
    7) JB weld the original plug in place and utilize the Hex Socket plug to the left of the oil plug (which is were my oil temp gauge is...)

    After much consideration I have decided to get a piggyback single oversized self tapping oil drain plug, I have also decided to purchase a Fumoto drain valve which I will hook into the piggy back plug on the self tapping drain plug. I am opting for the Fumoto, because I am afraid that even with retapping with the oil plug I may still have issues in the future. With the Fumoto I will never have to remove the plug. Based on the longevity (i plan to ride about 500 miles then reassess) of this fix I may just JB weld the self tapping plug in place.

    Now for the lesson learned... I will use my 4" stubby ratchet wrench for secure all oil drain plugs going forward instead of my 12" Flex Head Snap-on ratchet and also only change the oil when I actually have enough time to do so.
     

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