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Heat Issue

Boy, just had my first experience with the "Heat issue" on my stock '09.

Coming home from work, about a 25 mi trip, I got into stop and go traffic. Living in South Texas, it was still in the high 70s-lower 80s. After a few minutes of stop and go, the rear cylinder control started kicking in as it had before. However, since the traffic didn't improve, I could just feel the biker getting hotter and hotter.

The oil pressure seemed like it was creeping closer to zero that then 5 pounds it normally does during hot idle. Then the engine sound started changing and the EFI had problems controlling the idle.

I still can't believe my experience, coming from a carburated '02 Dyna, I never seen anything like it. I cannot imagine how the bike will survive in the South Texas summer, with temperatures around 100 degrees.

I have been looking around for a different set of pipes or slip-ons to do the Stage 1 with a bigger air filter. Now I feel rushed to do it so that I can have the EFI remapped to a richer setting.

After this long story, here are my questions.

How much difference in the engine temperature does the Stage 1 make?

My second question is on the Oil temperature gauge kit for the 09SG. Is it just plug and play as the catalog indicates? Does the SG have a build-in temperature sensor that you simply connect to?

I am thinking of getting the Oil temperature gauge to stay on top of the engine temperature and maybe get a quantative difference between stock and stage1.

Anybody in Florida or other "warm climates" have a similar experience? Do you feel the need for an oil cooler?

TIA

Bernhard
 
How much difference in the engine temperature does the Stage 1 make?

My second question is on the Oil temperature gauge kit for the 09SG. Is it just plug and play as the catalog indicates? Does the SG have a build-in temperature sensor that you simply connect to?

I am thinking of getting the Oil temperature gauge to stay on top of the engine temperature and maybe get a quantative difference between stock and stage1.

Anybody in Florida or other "warm climates" have a similar experience? Do you feel the need for an oil cooler?

TIA

Bernhard

The stage 1 WITH synthetic oil used would give you a reduction of around 10-20 degrees depending on the bike mileage and if it is broken in.
An oil cooler will further help this in your temps.

Here's something to ponder over.

Oil Temp Gauge - Harley Davidson Community
 
The stage 1 WITH synthetic oil used would give you a reduction of around 10-20 degrees depending on the bike mileage and if it is broken in.
An oil cooler will further help this in your temps.

Here's something to ponder over.

Oil Temp Gauge - Harley Davidson Community
Thanks for the info on the gauge.

I switched over to the HD Sync at the 1000 mi. I have seen many of the post's about the various other combinations of other oils, but haven't bothered yet with that. The bike has ~2,600 mi on it.

Has there ever been cases of a Harley "overheating" and obtaining damage. What is an air-cool engine todo with no air flow and ambient temperature of 100 degree +?

Bernhard
 
Thanks for the info on the gauge.

I switched over to the HD Sync at the 1000 mi. I have seen many of the post's about the various other combinations of other oils, but haven't bothered yet with that. The bike has ~2,600 mi on it.

Has there ever been cases of a Harley "overheating" and obtaining damage. What is an air-cool engine todo with no air flow and ambient temperature of 100 degree +?

Bernhard

They do overheat and go into heat management mode. One thing to remember is that if you think it is overheating in stop and go, get it moving to cool it off somehow or turn it off for a while to cool. You'll know by lack of response or pinging that it's overheating.
 
They do overheat and go into heat management mode. One thing to remember is that if you think it is overheating in stop and go, get it moving to cool it off somehow or turn it off for a while to cool. You'll know by lack of response or pinging that it's overheating.

Glider, being new to my HD Sporty, I am glad someone is clearing the air "excuse the unintended pun"...

But when running in very hot air temps in stop and go traffic regarding overheating...

What about carbureted V-twins overheating? Will the electronic computer or ignition try to advance timing or attempt to save itself or the engine from destruction? Will engine lack of response or pinging performance similar to the EFI equpped HD above give us owners of older iron any type of advanced warning?

I did run in 100+ deg heat in stop and go in August (this is SoCal after all) and saw the oil temp in the tank rise to 200 deg running okay, so fortunately I was not overheating, only had a little oil dripping near oil tank when I parked the bike on the jiffy stand afterwards.
 
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Don't think the ICM on carbed models has any heat management like the FI bikes do due to a number of reasons.
You'll know pretty much by the sluggish performance and the associated ping of an overheated engine that it's time to cool it off.
 
I have an O6 Ultra and just before going to Surgis this year I installed a temp gauge in place of the (I already know its hot gauge) Trying to get through Sturgis the engine got really hot (the oil was not overly hot) but I was loosing power, pinging and my fricking legs were getting medium rare!

I have SE Stage one kit (air and slip-ons) and as well the previous owner installed the SE Race tuner and "supposedly had the remap done". The bike runs great when moving and when not in Stop/Go and 90+

Does anyone know if the rear cylinder on an 06 can be mapped seperately?

Tim
 
They do overheat and go into heat management mode. One thing to remember is that if you think it is overheating in stop and go, get it moving to cool it off somehow or turn it off for a while to cool. You'll know by lack of response or pinging that it's overheating.
Can I assume that the change in the bike behaviour (idling, and sound of the engine) was the ECM going into overheat control mode?
 
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