Header Cracking Less With True-Duals?

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by RibEye, Apr 27, 2011.

  1. RibEye

    RibEye Junior Member Contributor

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    I just pulled my exhaust system completely off of my '03 RKC, in the process of checking my cam chain tensioners (for the 1st time at 23K). I wanted to make sure that one more part of the scooter was installed right (the exhaust system), by having been done by me. I'm glad I did, since I discovered that I was not imagining things when I thought I was getting more than normal vibration at idle (for the last couple of weeks).

    It turns out that my rear headpipe was cracked pretty good at the 'Y' with the front headpipe, down on the right side. In continuing to remove heatshields under the seat, I found that the bracket tab was broken, which ties the rear headpipe to the top of the starter.

    This was not the first time with this bike, as I found that the headpipe had cracked up near the rear head, and the bracket tab had broken once before, and both had been welded (previous owner, likely repaired by dealer, since that was where he had all his work done). The welding took out whatever temper the bracket tab had, and when it broke this time, it broke right beside the weld. Rigging a $10 part costing me $250 :( ... the weld on the headpipe did hold however.

    I had found the nut tying the bracket tab to the starter working loose a couple of times in the last 1.5 years, so vibration is likely a big issue in this area.

    All of that being said, I have found that this is not an uncommon problem (cracking rear headpipes and bracket tabs). I have ordered a new headpipe, but it was pretty expensive ($230 from the dealer, since tehMOCO is killing Chicago HD's inet business). I'm thinking that if it happens again, I will go with V&H or Bassani true duals instead, in an attempt to relieve some potential for further repeats. Is there any justification of my theory out there (getting rid of the 'Y' reducing the potential for headpipe cracking)? I'm leaning toward Bassani Power Curves, in an attempt to retain as much low end torque as possible.

    When I reinstall the exhaust system, I intend to make sure all components are positioned for neutral stress, before tightening it all down. This will be an attempt to minimize the potential for vibration/stress cracking in the future. But, I am a bit dubious and concerned about success with this theory.

    What ideas do these thoughts trigger from you guys?

    By the way, on a positive note, with 23K on the engine, my tensioner feet had only worn about .030, inner and outer the same. The previous owner had the dealer keep Syn3 in all 3 holes for the 10K miles he owned the scoot, and I have kept M1 VTwin 20-50 in there for the 13K I have put on.

    Enjoy,
    Rich P
     
  2. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    This problem goes back a ways my 97 FLHT cracked the rear pipe and bracket
     
  3. RibEye

    RibEye Junior Member Contributor

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    KNow of any reputable sources for true dual headers that try to provide matched lengths?

    Enjoy,
    Rich P
     
  4. tumma

    tumma Member

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    Use self locking nuts, lock washers where possible an locktite . Pull are the fasteners even like you said.I also used a little bigger washer where possible and have not had any problems since . The wifes bike has true dual V&H and has not had any problems. Good luck!:CANADA
     
  5. ChopperDoc

    ChopperDoc Active Member

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    I have had a set of Rush True Duals and their slip-ons on my bike for eleven years and never had a problem with them. They are at the low end of the price range but seem to offer great quality for the buck. I put in a set of power cones and cut the baffle down to about 8". Great sound. As for the "Y" pipe cracking - We always keep a couple on the shelf and as we change them out we repair them and keep cycling them through as long as they are servicible. It is a very common problem.
     
  6. ironmark

    ironmark Junior Member

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    I have Vance & Hines Big Shot Duels and I haven't had any issues with them at all and I have over 40K on my 08 FLTR. The V&H Big Shots are a true duel so you don't have a cross pipe. I like them because there is less heat on my right leg & by eliminating the Y pipe you can see more of the engine.
     
  7. HOLY DIVER

    HOLY DIVER Junior Member

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    i'm running Cobra true dual head pipes with BuB slip-ons no issues so far.chrome is great sound is great
     
  8. RUSHMORE_14

    RUSHMORE_14 Junior Member

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    Locktite on the flange bolts or just everywhere? I ask because I just installed V&H True Duals and did not use locktite any place. I have not run the bike yet so its not too late. Would u recommend?
     
  9. ironmark

    ironmark Junior Member

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    I can't say about the 09 models and up but on my 08 I just used the stock hardware & no loctite and I never had anything work loose. I never hooked the exhaust to the mounting bracket located by the starter and I haven't had any problems and I have 40K on the bike. Just to let you know , my bike shakes like washing machine on a out of balance spin cycle.
     
  10. RUSHMORE_14

    RUSHMORE_14 Junior Member

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    wow....thanks.