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Harley Davidson Exhaust Related Issues

r_k_dragon

Active Member
Okay, I haven't posted anything into 'Harley Davidson Exhaust Related Issues', yet. I plan to de-Cat a header pipe by removing the flap portion of the collector and replce the flap after removing the Cat. I'm looking at a Harbor Freight MIG Gasless welder. Will this handle a small job like that? All comments appreciated.:breakdance:cheers
 
Hey Steve,

I am a retired welder. I had my own shop for years.

I know your knowledable at LOTS but ??? on your welding. ???

My opinion IS take the part to a welding shop that uses .024 hard wire and argon gas (muffler shop I have used) to do a nice LIGHT seam.

IF buying a CHEAP 110 welder, that's a No-Go in my book.

The best little welder is a 220amp and has a gas valve to use with Hard wire. (smallest hard wire in steel is .024 and .030. a bigger amp one handles .035.)

DUTY CYCLE is very important. This tells you how good a machine it is and how long it will weld before it kicks into a Cooling cycle..... One that is 100% duty cycle and will run .024/.030/.035 hard wire is considered a good one. 60% duty cycle may be okay IF on .035 wire, BUT not in my book.

I find the inner-shield (flux cored wire using no outside gas shield) Not a good type to use on even muffler parts.:swoon I guess I'm spoiled.

Believe me,,,Unlesss you practice with inner-shield on LIGHT metal and take little short welds (1/2 MAX) you will burn thru even in positioning the metal for all down passes.

The Quality of gas shielded hard wire is Much better/stronger then inner-shield.

I guess I am giving you this because I know you. Else wise I'd keep quiet.

signed....BUBBIE
 
Hey Steve,

I am a retired welder. I had my own shop for years.

I know your knowledable at LOTS but ??? on your welding. ???

My opinion IS take the part to a welding shop that uses .024 hard wire and argon gas (muffler shop I have used) to do a nice LIGHT seam.

IF buying a CHEAP 110 welder, that's a No-Go in my book.

The best little welder is a 220amp and has a gas valve to use with Hard wire. (smallest hard wire in steel is .024 and .030. a bigger amp one handles .035.)

DUTY CYCLE is very important. This tells you how good a machine it is and how long it will weld before it kicks into a Cooling cycle..... One that is 100% duty cycle and will run .024/.030/.035 hard wire is considered a good one. 60% duty cycle may be okay IF on .035 wire, BUT not in my book.

I find the inner-shield (flux cored wire using no outside gas shield) Not a good type to use on even muffler parts.:swoon I guess I'm spoiled.

Believe me,,,Unlesss you practice with inner-shield on LIGHT metal and take little short welds (1/2 MAX) you will burn thru even in positioning the metal for all down passes.

The Quality of gas shielded hard wire is Much better/stronger then inner-shield.

I guess I am giving you this because I know you. Else wise I'd keep quiet.

signed....BUBBIE

Hey BUBBIE,

That's what I was looking for! Thanks! I already have a preferred muffler shop in mind that's done some other work for me.

Dallas is sending an angled bung for the wide band o2 sensor in place of the 90 degree one I receiver with my GEN 4. So, I'm getting pretty close to install.

Hope things are good on your side of the state. Got rained on riding in to work this morning. I know! I know! Some of us still work regular jobs! Next year for me though! Ride safe and see you soon!

Steve
 
Okay. I have an update. Received parts from Dallas. Now, since this is my work ride and luckily I still have a job, installation will have some time constraints.

Today I started and removed the seat strap and seat. Dropped the fuel line quick disconnect and removed the two rear tank mount bolts. By the way, I had run the tank down to a little less than a gallon as preparation for this. Great planning!

Removed the two front tank bolts and covered the rear fender with a big towel. Raised the tank high enough to turn it 180 degrees and set on the rear fender. Popped the wiring channel cover and run the gauge wire into the front fairing and tied it. Knowing where the gauge connector would reach from a previous attempt to install. Enough said about that!

Run the connections for the injectors up and dropped them through the channel outlet down between the heads. Worked to get those run in the best routes in that crowded little path and replaced the cover. Turned the tank back around and replaced bolts(front and rear) finger tight and then torqued them down.

Insured the gauge connector was still in place and the injector connectors were still hanging in the right spot. Positioned the wide band O2 sensor connector, the ground wire, and the controller into the space under the seat and replaced the seat and strap.

I'm now ready to drop the header pipe. This will have to be done on a friday so I can get it welded, so I have not connected anything at this point. But, I'll be ready to cut and open the flap, remove the cat, drill a hole for the wide band O2 sensor, and have the 45 degree angle bung and flap welded. Install the gauge, remount the header pipe, installed the sensor, make the final connections(ground, injectors, gauge, and sensor).

Final checks and I'll be ready for a setup run through! Scheduled to work this Friday so .... we'll see!

:cheers:breakdance.
 
You have a Great Plan...

I see no problems with your approach. You may find a new business by Installing these on the HD's.

Put out your Shingle.:s

signed....BUBBIE
 
Okay. I have an update. Received parts from Dallas. Now, since this is my work ride and luckily I still have a job, installation will have some time constraints.

Today I started and removed the seat strap and seat. Dropped the fuel line quick disconnect and removed the two rear tank mount bolts. By the way, I had run the tank down to a little less than a gallon as preparation for this. Great planning!

Removed the two front tank bolts and covered the rear fender with a big towel. Raised the tank high enough to turn it 180 degrees and set on the rear fender. Popped the wiring channel cover and run the gauge wire into the front fairing and tied it. Knowing where the gauge connector would reach from a previous attempt to install. Enough said about that!

Run the connections for the injectors up and dropped them through the channel outlet down between the heads. Worked to get those run in the best routes in that crowded little path and replaced the cover. Turned the tank back around and replaced bolts(front and rear) finger tight and then torqued them down.

Insured the gauge connector was still in place and the injector connectors were still hanging in the right spot. Positioned the wide band O2 sensor connector, the ground wire, and the controller into the space under the seat and replaced the seat and strap.

I'm now ready to drop the header pipe. This will have to be done on a friday so I can get it welded, so I have not connected anything at this point. But, I'll be ready to cut and open the flap, remove the cat, drill a hole for the wide band O2 sensor, and have the 45 degree angle bung and flap welded. Install the gauge, remount the header pipe, installed the sensor, make the final connections(ground, injectors, gauge, and sensor).

Final checks and I'll be ready for a setup run through! Scheduled to work this Friday so .... we'll see!



:cheers:breakdance.

Okay, didn't have to work Friday. Started by removing the V&H MOs, seat strap & seat, dropped the rear part of the right side footrest, all the heatshields on this side, and the header pipe. Removed the two O2 sensors and began marking the bung location according to prints from Dobeck(Dallas). Punched and drilled for the new Wide Band O2 Sensor in the location on th eheader pipe. Scheduled with Mike's Metal Works here in Yuma and covered the setup with Sean. Sean called a couple of hours later and it looked just like I pictured it! Nice work Sean! Thanks! Now for the install and setup! More to come.
 
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