hard finding neutral

Discussion in 'Softail Models' started by mnkymn1, Mar 5, 2010.

  1. mnkymn1

    mnkymn1 Member

    37
    16
    1
    I have an 07 Night Train with 35,000 miles on it and just put a baker extra plate kit in with a heavier diaphragm spring and now am having a hard time finding neutral at idle...slides right in if I shift to neutral while rolling to a stop....the clutch is adjusted properly at both the cable and basket...im at a loss.....
     
  2. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

    7,198
    0
    34
    I would give the new clutch pack a little wear in mileage and see if it improves. Once you wear off any 'ever so slight' high spots on each disc and plate, it will decrease the overall drag the clutch pack has when you have the clutch lever pulled in which will help in finding neutral. It may only be a .001 high spot on each disc, but when you multiple it by 9 it adds up to a lot of extra distance which just may help..

    I have never used the Baker system but I would give the new pack a little break in mileage, then perform both adjustments once again and see if it is better.

    Others that have actual Baker experience may have better advice.:)
     
  3. cossak

    cossak Member

    93
    0
    0
    What oil are you using in your primary? Could be the problem.
     
  4. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

    4,959
    83
    113
    YOU MAY have to TIGHTEN the cable adjustment(tighten - 1/16" or LESS) a BIT MORE than PROPER at the cable to handle adjustment UNTIL clutch BREAK-IN.... and it will..... Then it will LOOSEN and NEED another adjustment after 200/500 miles any way... UNLESS you use the TIGHTEST adjustment NOW, the clutch plates like Hoop said will drag a little... and neutral is usually hard to find at first..

    THE OTHER QUESTION I have to MOST??

    have you changed the clutch handle OR BENT it??

    OR have you added (modified) different GRIPS to change the ORIGINAL distance PULL on the handle?

    OR like some do,,,, put a leather wrap ON the grip or clutch handle?

    I bet just a small amount (tightest at lever-cable) is needed to get it to shift at a STOP...

    IF you TRY at "0" play(cable-handle adjustment),,,, JUST TRY and SEE,,,, IF IT will shift fine,,,, then normal BREAK-IN is the PLAY!

    signed....BUBBIE

    I missed the 5 minute rule BUT WANTED TO ADD:::::::

    I just RE-READ and see a lot of miles on your bike......... THE CLUTCH CABLE IS WORN..... JUST NORMAL AT 30K AND THE CABLE USUALLY WILL NEED TO BE SET TIGHTER TO TAKE UP THE WORN SLOP THAT IS THERE IN THE CABLE CASE....... YOU may want to just replace the cable or WAIT n SEE

    signed....BUBBIE
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 7, 2010
  5. lostgringo

    lostgringo Member

    10
    1
    0
    You certainly are not alone with your problem, seems all harleys, and maybe all bikes have similar problems. theres a guy in American Iron Mag, Feb 10 pp 70-72 who put a "NI" shift drum which puts neutral at the bottom. Where it comes from i dont know, but i want one NOW!
     
  6. Chopper

    Chopper Senior Member

    1,632
    48
    18
    mnkymn1 I think you answered your own question with the problem started after you installed the baker extra plate clutch, it's hard to improve on a good thing and the stock Harley clutch is a good thing. It sounds like you're not getting full clutch disengaugement like you had with the stock clutch, while the baker gives a more positive clutch engagement for a race application it's not quite as user friendly on the street. I would guess the adjustment might need finer tuning to get it to disengauge better, there is a lot more pressure on the plates plus less room to move the plates for a good disengaugement, and are you using a fluid recommended to work with the baker clutch plates, if they recommend one?
     
  7. dangerdan

    dangerdan Junior Member

    922
    26
    0
    Did someone just turn on the lights ????

    Chopper are you saying that a slight engagement of the clutch plates would make it difficult to find Neutral !!
     
  8. Chopper

    Chopper Senior Member

    1,632
    48
    18
    No, I just copied and pasted Hoople & Cossak's posts, mixed in a little Bubbie then scrambled all the words and clicked post quick reply.
     
  9. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

    4,959
    83
    113
    HEY MIXER ???? What part of BUBBIE did you use???
    THE RIGHT OR WRONG answers??

    Just wondered?

    I had a PEEVE today in MY thoughts...

    WHY do some of our members EXPECT ONLY RIGHT ANSWERS?

    IT is HARD ENOUGH to just RESPOND to some of the questions that are asked HERE by our other FINE MEMBERS.... I usually think I'm RIGHT and find i NEED a TUNE UP ever once and a while,,,, so I'm available to get answers to correct my SHORT FALLS.....

    I usually POST my answers here on the forum and I should advice ALL to TAKE THEM as a GRAIN of SALT...

    GOTTA LOVE THAT WITTY Chopper!!!!!!

    signed....BUBBIE

    WHO ME? not MY fault!
     
  10. Chopper

    Chopper Senior Member

    1,632
    48
    18
    Bubbie if I had a question and I wanted the wrong answer, you would be the last person I would ask, your post was right on as was Hoople & cossak's, the statement (slides right in if I shift to neutral while rolling to a stop) made it clear that the clutch dragging is the problem. And yes, just the slightest amount of clutch engagement or drag will make it imposable to engage neutral when stopped. I have some older customers that like there cables adjusted way loose, if my techs adjusted there cables by the book they would never come back, their idea of a easy pull is for the clutch to start to pull after the lever is a third of the pulled in, and some girls with small hands like it the same way, but if you don't have enough travel in the clutch for a good disengagement it makes shifting into neutral hard, so it's a fine line to get the adjustment where the bike & customer are both happy. The best clutch adjustment for the cable is 1/16'' to 1/8'', by the book.