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Got the codes off the bike, battery drain while running...

B

bigcity

Member
FLSTCI 2002, Brand new battery (put in yesterday). Rode to work this morn, on the way home tonight bike just died. Tried to start and got tnothing. Let sit and you could hear that the battery was gaining charge back. Not enough to start. So, there is a drain somewhere while running...

Jumped pins 1 and 2 on the data link connector.
this is what I got:
1st, 41
2nd, 43
3rd, 16
4th, 16
5th, 99
6th, 25
7th, 35

Also, testing the regulator. I have 3 pins on the connector, what should they read for volts ? I know if theres 2 there should be no voltage, what about 3?

Any thoughts...
 
I would bet most of those error codes were due to low battery voltage. Using a voltmeter, first determine and verify if the battery is getting any charging voltage.

My manual may not be the correct one but I show 4 wires coming out of the regulator.
Two input wires from the AC stator. And two output wires, battery positive and ground.
I believe 2002 stators were single phase so 4 wires would make sense.
 
Your right, 4 wires. Just looked again. I meant just three go into the connector and one runs up by the battery (from the regulator). Do you know how to test these with the meter. Black lead to ground/ neg on battery. Red to pins on regulator connector? What should the readings be with this one? Or if it's single phase there should be no voltage coming from the pins. Thought I read that in a post.

Thanks
 
I would start with charging up the battery. Start the bike, then place your voltmeter across the battery and see if you have any charging voltage at 1500 RPM. Also check at idle. Then increase the RPM and see what the max is. You may not see any increase above straight battery voltage.
If you don't see a voltage increase, I believe there is an inline circuit breaker from the positive output of the regulator to the battery. Check it. If the charging output is zero and the circuit breaker is good, there is procedure for doing some rough tests to establish if regulator is dead shorted and also some rough stator output checks using the AC scale on your voltmeter. It's in the self help files. The smell test on the primary fluid may also tell you if the stator is toast.
 
Battery charged. Bike running. I put a meter to the pins coming off the stator and at idle I get around 12 V (AC) off each pin. On the regulator I get .122 aprox. off each pin (is that good or bad ?). When the bike is running with meter on battery it does not show increase in volts.

Did the smell test and it smells like fluid, no nasty smell. I will check that inline breaker. I traced the wire and did not see one but will check again. Where is the breaker located on the wire, assuming near the battery?
 
As it applies to a 2002 touring service manual I have. Don't know how much different your bike is:

I can't tell you where the circuit breaker is located but I would first look under the seat. Even if the CB checks OK, I would change it out for a Maxi or blade fuse. Years of painful experience on my behalf is yours for free. Those snap action self resetting CB's were a poor choice for circuit protection. When used in regulated high current applications such as ours, they are nothing but problems as they get old. Replace it with a Bussmann Maxi or blade fuse and you won't go wrong. You can Not test those CB breakers using a simple ohm meter. You must measure their voltage drop while they are passing a heavy load.

There is a basic stator output check that you can make. It doesn't really tell you a whole bunch and it won't catch a few shorted turns but here goes. Remove the stator connector to the regulator. Place your voltmeter on an AC scale and across the two stator wires. . Start engine and read AC volts. You probably should read maybe 10 volts per 1000 RPM of the engine. This output is a function of magnet strenght and flux concentrator gap so don't split hairs. It's a good "go no go" test but that's it.. Together with the fact you don't smell toast in the oil is a good sign.

Oops, make that about 20 volts per 1000 RPM. I need to proof read my own work.
 
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I'll look at the CB. I'm going to replace with blades. Can't remeber is there one that breaks the regulator connection? Meaning bad breaker, charge is not coming back to battery or getting to the battery.

Thanks a lot, 76 degrees outside. This is killin me. Almost ready to take it to the dealership!!!
 
According to my service manual (2002 touring), positive wire coming out of regulator goes directly to CB. Then from CB goes directly to Starter. From starter continues on to positive of battery. Nothing else on that CB other than to break the link between regulator and starter.
So if CB was "wide open", no charge will go into battery. Everything else will appear normal.
 
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