Gears vs Cam Chain

[dolt]

Here in Tucson, we are just entering riding season. I hate to take mine down, just to measure run-out, then be down until whichever route my runout dictates arrives in my mailbox. My tensioners looked great at 20K. I am approaching 30K, so it is time to look again.
Enjoy,
Rich P

Check runout when you pull the cam chest cover to look at tensioners. If the tensioners still look good at 30K, you might consider replacing them with the CYCO tensioer; better material and with your chain already being "polished" from 30K miles of running, they should last a long time and save you a bundle.

 

[dolt]

Question for the gurus.If the run out for pre/post '07 cranks is more than the .003 that supposedly would take out your oil pump first along with other components in the nose cone. Wouldn't it also take out the same components with chain drive cams if your run out exceeds the factory specs. even though they allow up to .006 after '07? From what I understand you can send your crank off for welding & truing for a long term fix. Don't know the cost of that though. What are the chances of the factory crank being that far out?
tourbox

What you say is correct but not the real problem. Losing the oil pump is bad enough but losing a couple of teeth from a cam drive gear is much worse.

There are various places to have your crank trued/welded and the cost is not prohibitive. If that is all that is being done, there are sources that will true and weld for $350. The cost is in the labor to pull the lower unit, split the cases (or send the lower unit), shipping and putting it all back together. If the lower unit is from a post 2002 model, most will send the lower unit and also have the Timken crank bearing fitted.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Wondering how much it would cost The MOCO to re tool the TC motor to make it a 4 cam like the Sporster, that would straighten out the valve train geometry and give us a higher revving Big Twin JMO

 

[tourbox]

Thanks for the reply Dolt. I would do most of the labor myself. I have rebuilt several Shovels,Evos & a couple of TCs. I don't plan on doing any of that work as yet because I have 3+ years of warranty left. That is some good info for future though. The Timken conversion is a better way to go.Capital Jac, that is another interesting question. I'm old school and still like carbs & points, and a single cam.
tourbox

 

[dolt]

Wondering how much it would cost The MOCO to re tool the TC motor to make it a 4 cam like the Sporster, that would straighten out the valve train geometry and give us a higher revving Big Twin JMO

Stop wondering. With the allowable crank runout of .012" for warranty purposes, it won't happen. It would be much simpler to just install a twin cam gear drive system; no retooling necessary for that. However, the cranks would have to be stabilized by pinning, welding or an much tighter press fit like the 120R crank. The MoCo saw a chance to cut into the gear drive aftermarket with the billet plate, hydro tensioner, roller chain setup and they have but a dent in that aftermarket; another money maker for the MoCo and a shrewd move IMHO.

 

[DCoul]

I noticed that it has a lot more pull in the higher rpm range. I honestly didn't notice more bottom end but it had enough to begin with. What I really like is being able to pass cars and trucks with the RPMS between 3,000 and 4,000. It's vibration free at those RPMS also. The gear drives took out any chain lash, and moved the RPMs up about 300 or so. Just a guess. The Andrews site recommended the 26's for heavy bikes riding 2 up so I went with it.

 

[hoghunter]

I had the gear drives put in my 2006 ultra. I already had the 95 inch kit. I went with the andrews 37's. I was afraid I would loose some bottom end and I may have but I also installed an Doebeck TFI and it has so much more power than before and it doesn't ping any more either.
Mike