Was wondering if any one here has pulled an oil pump off an EVO without pulling the engine out of the frame? Mine doesn't have enough clearance to get the bolts out of the pump without hitting the transmission. Even if I cut the bolts to get them out I would not have enough room to get them back in. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
FXR oil pump repair
- Thread starter Grumpy01
- Start date
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Have not on FXR but have done Heritage and installed new bushing in frame when HD said it could not be done:s
northernrider
Member
I have HD service manual for 94 FXR have done it on that bike and couple others all EVOs 84 FLHS 90 FLH and a couple of shovels all done engine in frame.
Can you post a picture of it wondering if is possiable wrong bolts installed.
I am not sure that is possible ? Bolts are not much longer than the width of the pump assy.
Can you post a picture of it wondering if is possiable wrong bolts installed.
I am not sure that is possible ? Bolts are not much longer than the width of the pump assy.
karlsbike
Active Member
Grumpy: Note that you don't have to take out the innermost two bolts - the oil pump cover bolt holes are open on the inboard end. Not the best description, but I found a picture taken yesterday. It's a bit off focus, but look closely on the inboard side of the upper cover bolt and you'll see that the bolt is visible.
So, here's how you should (try to) do it:
1. Loosen the four cover bolts
2. Remove the two outer bolts if you manage
NOTE: I did mine last year in the frame and it was tight - I had to also losen the two (top) oil pump housing bolts to get some free play, and leave the bolts in the pump cover, wriggling it off.
3. Pull cover sideways out/wriggle it out
NOTE: There is nothing in the way inside...
4. Remove oil pump shaft circlip (on the innermost gear)
5. Pull the gear off
NOTE: There is a key on the shaft that will come off/or you have to take off. At this stage, you could mark both gears to get it back the same way & aligned with the other gear. At least look closely if one edge is slightly chamfered or there is a mark on it (mine wasn't).
6. Loosen/pull out two top bolts
7. Pull the gear oil pump housing straight off.
NOTE 1: The shaft will stay with the engine as there is antoher circlip holding the drive gear - so don't push the shaft in.
NOTE 2: There is a key on the shaft also for the inside gear so when you pull off the pump you need to pay attention.
NOTE 3: Be careful when you do this so you don't gouge the soft aluminium housing & cover
So, here's how you should (try to) do it:
1. Loosen the four cover bolts
2. Remove the two outer bolts if you manage
NOTE: I did mine last year in the frame and it was tight - I had to also losen the two (top) oil pump housing bolts to get some free play, and leave the bolts in the pump cover, wriggling it off.
3. Pull cover sideways out/wriggle it out
NOTE: There is nothing in the way inside...
4. Remove oil pump shaft circlip (on the innermost gear)
5. Pull the gear off
NOTE: There is a key on the shaft that will come off/or you have to take off. At this stage, you could mark both gears to get it back the same way & aligned with the other gear. At least look closely if one edge is slightly chamfered or there is a mark on it (mine wasn't).
6. Loosen/pull out two top bolts
7. Pull the gear oil pump housing straight off.
NOTE 1: The shaft will stay with the engine as there is antoher circlip holding the drive gear - so don't push the shaft in.
NOTE 2: There is a key on the shaft also for the inside gear so when you pull off the pump you need to pay attention.
NOTE 3: Be careful when you do this so you don't gouge the soft aluminium housing & cover
Thanks to all that replied. To Karlsbike a special thanks. I took a look today in my snowy wet garage and looked at the two innermost bolts. You are correct on the open bolts part. Those are the ones that hit the trap door on the trans. When I get a chance I will try and attack this problem. The pump is leaking past the check ball and is filling the sump. It needs fixing in the spring.
Again many thanks.
Again many thanks.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
The check ball can be relapped on the bike and replaced, followed by a good oil flushing and cleaning the over head tappet screen Reseating Oil Pump Check Valve - Harley Davidson Community
Breeze3at
Experienced Member
Grumpy, there's a check ball seating fix that you may want to try before you get into the difficulty of removing the oil pump. Reseating Oil Pump Check Valve - Archive - Harley Davidson Community
OOPs, Capitol Jack and I were posting at the same time!
OOPs, Capitol Jack and I were posting at the same time!
Last edited:
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
I've done the check valve routine 3 times over the last several years. Replaced the ball each time.
Djid the ball tap thing and the lap it in thing and nothing cured it. I suspect a possible pourus casting.
The bike is an early 84 with the 5 speed and shovel era trap door. The trap door is whats in the way. If I have to take the engine out, the pump will be replaced . Thanks again guys.
Djid the ball tap thing and the lap it in thing and nothing cured it. I suspect a possible pourus casting.
The bike is an early 84 with the 5 speed and shovel era trap door. The trap door is whats in the way. If I have to take the engine out, the pump will be replaced . Thanks again guys.
karlsbike
Active Member
Grumpy
I agree with you - you might as well get a new pump. I just got an Ultima HO pump for my new engine build, but I've not yet tried it - you're not the only one watching the snow these days, heh, heh.
The question for you would be to make sure you know what pump fits with your cases - the oil holes...
I agree with you - you might as well get a new pump. I just got an Ultima HO pump for my new engine build, but I've not yet tried it - you're not the only one watching the snow these days, heh, heh.
The question for you would be to make sure you know what pump fits with your cases - the oil holes...