Front Fork Oil Change

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by Bud White, Feb 2, 2009.

  1. Bud White

    Bud White Well-Known Member Retired Moderators

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    I know Glider has posted else where figured i would add my take and how i set up my tool to vacuum out the Forks..

    First ya need a way to drain it Glider drilled a bolt .. i dont have access to a got press or lathe so i figured what about a Metric Brake Caliper Bleeder Screw
    Yes the make them in M8 x 1.25 add a nut and oring and there is your drain and vacuum screw.

    Some recycled pics but use the Brake Bleeder to drain the Forks

    [​IMG]

    Then found out it wouldn't draw enough vacuum to refill the forks and it was 5 oclock sunday so no where to get a Vacuum pump ..

    Fast forward to this am off to get a pump refill the fork

    Using this set up again

    [​IMG]

    Easy to do also replace the Fork Drain Screw with the Allen head Drain Screws

    Minor Rant well Major .

    WHY WOULD YOU PUT PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS ON A FRONT FORK ON A 20K BIKE.. What Brain Surgeon came up with that ????????

    Right side Came out real Easy but left side NOOOOO

    [​IMG]


    Also they say you only need to change the fork oil every 50k but this stuff was dark brown almost black

    [​IMG]

    This is Fairly light color compared to the rest
     
  2. Bud White

    Bud White Well-Known Member Retired Moderators

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    I got out and rode today muchhh better no where near the nose dive when getting on the brakes..

    and felt more in control
     
  3. Joyflyin

    Joyflyin Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator

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    "WHY WOULD YOU PUT PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS ON A FRONT FORK ON A 20K BIKE.. What Brain Surgeon came up with that ????????"

    Ditto! I must agree.....:6:
     
  4. whatyardwork

    whatyardwork Banned

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    That is stupid {the phillips}, as is the 12 point 10mm bolt holding the caliper on in the bottom photo.Sometimes that nut driver can be your best friend.Ever notice how many torx bolts on your scoot arent torx?After looking over mine I could see more than half where torx plus.Use a standard torx bit on any of those and they like to strip out as well.Fortunatly I already have a torx plus set.
     
  5. wildspirit97

    wildspirit97 Senior Member

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    That usually happen when using the wrong size (too small) screwdriver. Not saying you did.
     
  6. Bud White

    Bud White Well-Known Member Retired Moderators

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    I was using the #3 bit the one that isnt messed up came out first no hassle
     
  7. STEVE07

    STEVE07 Well-Known Member Staff Member Super Moderators

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    Next time that phillips even begins to slip tap a robertson into it,it works like a charm,we have been using this trick on cam-lock assemblies for years.
     
  8. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    Not condoning the use of phillips in the slightest, but it was developed for speed and easy of assembly and made to ensure user would not overtighten over 8 inch-lbs or so, having the same lifting/camming effect as regular slot type. Good for World War production line assembly, but terrible from a reuse or routine maintenance angle.

    Oh yeah, one other reason why everyone seems to have a hard time with the fork screw is because it is metric (if it has a "dimple" next to the cross it is definitely metric). And as Glider has said before, use a hand impact tool with hardened phillips heads (make sure it fits snug). Usually you do not even have to resort to the impact, as the knurled large diameter handle provides plenty of leverage without the "camming out effect" associated with regular handled driver hand tools.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2009
  9. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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  10. Bud White

    Bud White Well-Known Member Retired Moderators

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    I would have used that glider but i didnt have it handy .. one reason why i replaced with allen heads