Front Brake Line Replacement

Discussion in 'Sportster Models' started by 4Barrel, Aug 9, 2009.

  1. 4Barrel

    4Barrel Member

    38
    16
    0
    swapped out my stock handlebars with wider bars. i was able to retain all the cables, but the brake line is stretched out a bit too much. obtained a replacement line with the correct end fittings from my local shop and plan on replacing today.

    i read tips on brake line bleeding, but have a couple qs:
    - if i can't get HD brake fluid today, what would be acceptable/better?
    - when removing the line, is there a way to minimize air getting into brake cylinder? or do i need to get all the fluid out anyway, and just keep bleeding?

    thanks in advance!
     
  2. kemo

    kemo R.I.P

    1,690
    48
    5
    Your master cylinder cap should list the type of brake fluid to use. Could be Dot 3, Dot 4, or Dot 5. Don't mix 4 or 5. Should keep the fluid all the same Dot rating anyhow. The brand doesn't really matter. You can use Harley or Auto Zone or what ever you can get. Don't reuse the fluid and try not to use an open bottle. It is best if you drain all the fluid from the m/c. If you have some kind of vacumm device to suck up the fluid from the m/c that is great. You can also use the vac to bleed the calipers.
     
  3. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

    8,176
    98
    16
    I believe your bike uses DOT 5...Silicone based...and is NOT compatible with any other type (read on your master cylinder cap for the exact fluid to put in. There are plenty of tips on Bleed Front Brakes in the self help tab near the top of the web page. Peruse through it and Search tab as well, you will find it is a piece of cake and you'll be happy you did it yourself right! :D
     
  4. 4Barrel

    4Barrel Member

    38
    16
    0
    cool, thanks for the input - got the tips printed out and i'm off to give this a try. i have a bleeder for my car, but don't think the cover will work on the small mc on the bike... so will do it the old fashioned way. cheers!

    checked the bike - my '07 specifies DOT 4. just fyi. thanks again!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 9, 2009
  5. 4Barrel

    4Barrel Member

    38
    16
    0
    back again for a little help: does anyone have, or know how i can find the torque spec for the brake line retaining bolts (both master cylinder and caliper ends - don't want to assume they are the same)...
     
  6. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

    8,176
    98
    16
    Check your service manual to be sure, but the M/C banjo fitting for my 2004 XL1200 torque is 20-25 Ft-Lbs (27.1-33.9Nm) and they recommend new washers for all banjo fittings. Only flush w/ 100% alcohol to clean and final assembly w/ fresh brake fluid (in your case Dot 4) only. No shop towels or rags around disassembled M/C or Caliper piston areas, the slightest bit of lint will cause problems when clearances are in the 1/10,000th range (notice fluid does not "seep" past piston/seals if properly assembled).
     
  7. 4Barrel

    4Barrel Member

    38
    16
    0
    hmmm... i reused the existing washers. but, i did run LOTS of new Dot 4 fluid through the new line (i used a power bleeder - which worked good for getting fluid throught the system, but it was messy removing). and i used a can of compressed air to ensure there wasn't any "stuff" on the cap before i reinstalled it. however, i'm not getting any resistance on the brake lever, so i'm going to do the zip-tie trick and see it that works... more advise welcome and appreciated...
     
  8. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

    8,176
    98
    16
    Just use a bungee cord, save the zip ties for the side covers...:bigsmiley22: