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Forks=scews,caps,oils,and pvc

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Rhys

Active Member
Im changing/upgrading the oil in my forks on my softail. I was told to run 5w, but when I looked on here alot of guys are useing 15w & 20w. I also was told to always replace the drain scews at the lower part of the forks because of breakage. My forks seem saggy, but I can see no signs of leakage. So hear are my questions.
Can or should I use a heavier oil in the forks?
Can I take the drain scew to the hardware store and match it up with a grade #8 screw so I dont have to replace it everytime? Or will that tear up the forks?
Do I need to remove that set scew that is on the side of the forks when removing the cap/screw on top of the forks?
I also was told that if I wanted to get my forks to stand straight up/fully exstended to put a piece of pvc pipe in the top, True or False?

Thanks agin everyone, you have all been very helpful with all my questions and have made things a whole lot easier!!!:D
 
Stay with the Harley drain screws if you replace them. They are metric threads, just replace the sealing washers if you want to. You usually can get a couple of changes out of the stock washers. You have to remove the fork caps on top so it will drain and also to refill the tubes too. The 5 weight will show an improvement with just a servicing but if you go 10 weight, it will show a bit stiffer front end. Fork oils are not all standardized. One manufacturer may call an oil 10 wt and another manufacturer will call it a 15 wt.

I would suggest using the HD oil and go for a 10 wt which is Type B if you want a slightly stiffer front fork.

Don't know why you would want to add the PVC spacers unless you are bottoming out, but the 10 weight oil will take care of that too.

Harley Davidson Community

I would suggest using the impact driver to remove the drain screws. It doesn't do damage like a screw driver bit would.

Harley Davidson Community
 
No its not bottoming out. Its alittle saggy, dives under braking and dosnt stand up quite like it should. plus I know it never been changed. But I will go and get the HD brand of fork oil, change it and post the changes.
Thanks Guys
 
Good deal. I think if you use the 10 weight instead of the stock 5 wt, no spacers will be needed.
 
Rhys said:
Im changing/upgrading the oil in my forks on my softail. I was told to run 5w, but when I looked on here alot of guys are useing 15w & 20w. I also was told to always replace the drain scews at the lower part of the forks because of breakage. My forks seem saggy, but I can see no signs of leakage. So hear are my questions.
Can or should I use a heavier oil in the forks?
Can I take the drain scew to the hardware store and match it up with a grade #8 screw so I dont have to replace it everytime? Or will that tear up the forks?
Do I need to remove that set scew that is on the side of the forks when removing the cap/screw on top of the forks?
I also was told that if I wanted to get my forks to stand straight up/fully exstended to put a piece of pvc pipe in the top, True or False?

Thanks agin everyone, you have all been very helpful with all my questions and have made things a whole lot easier!!!:D
Click to expand...
Yes you need to loosen the upper tree pinch bolts before you remove the caps, don't forget to tighten them and jounce the front end to work out the air
 
Ok guys I said in my earlier post that they were not bottoming out, but I went on a ride yesterday and I noticed when I came to a stop and got off the bike I was walking away, and as I turned around to give it one last look before I walked inside the front was sitting alittle lower. I got back on in later and rocked the bike and got it to raise a bit, but it has a lot more travel now. Im gonna change it this week, cause Im getting ready to head to S. carolina. Hope the oil does it, headed to the harley shop to get the oil right now.
Thanks guys, I will post results here real soon.
 
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