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Fork oil flush on 09 Ultra

Not familiar with 09. Does it have drain screws on it? The manual may have you removing them since you cant get to the fork cap with out fairing removal and considerable dis-assembly. Id in fact you can drain from the drain screws, you can refill using the mighty-vac method. Very easy to do.

I remember Mavagrand doing his forks and his bike is a 2008. Same forks? Dont know but here is his thread.

MityVac Brake Bleeder... - Harley Davidson Community
 
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Just got through doing this task last Friday. Not hard, but took some time to do it. You have to remove the outer fairing cap and the radio, which isn’t a big deal, but getting the screws back into the radio can be annoying. The inner cap with the rocker switches also must be removed. This allows access to the fork cap bolts. With the bike lifted so the front wheel is just off the floor, ( this removes the spring tension on the bolts) remove the drain screws at the rear of each fork. Now remove the cap bolts off the forks and allow them to drain. Pump the forks a few times to get all the old oil out then replace the drain screws. '09 Ultra will take 10.8 oz or 73 3/32ths teaspoons in each leg. Only put halve the oil in each fork, then pump them a few times to get it down, then add the remainder of the oil to each leg. I used 1 part type E to 2 parts Screaming Eagle heavy. Seems to work better than stock. And yes, what comes out of the forks is nasty even at only 20K miles. Overall, a very satisfying task to take on. Hope this helps.
 
So from what Mule Skinner says, yes you could use the easy fork oil change method. No need to remove any fairing or radio stuff.
 
Mule Skinner said:
Just got through doing this task last Friday. Not hard, but took some time to do it. You have to remove the outer fairing cap and the radio, which isn’t a big deal, but getting the screws back into the radio can be annoying. The inner cap with the rocker switches also must be removed. This allows access to the fork cap bolts. With the bike lifted so the front wheel is just off the floor, ( this removes the spring tension on the bolts) remove the drain screws at the rear of each fork. Now remove the cap bolts off the forks and allow them to drain. Pump the forks a few times to get all the old oil out then replace the drain screws. '09 Ultra will take 10.8 oz or 73 3/32ths teaspoons in each leg. Only put halve the oil in each fork, then pump them a few times to get it down, then add the remainder of the oil to each leg. I used 1 part type E to 2 parts Screaming Eagle heavy. Seems to work better than stock. And yes, what comes out of the forks is nasty even at only 20K miles. Overall, a very satisfying task to take on. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Why doe sthe radio need to come out? :newsmile063:
 
Radio wouldn't need to come out to do the fork caps. My mistake as I replaced the handle bar isolators at the same time and they can't be removed with the radio in place. Just the inner fairing cap to get to the fork cap bolts. I found it helpful to loosen the outer inner fairing bolts to give a little more room for my wrench to get on the bolts. It take a 1 3/8" wrench. I used a gear wrench to do the job.
 
I used 1 part type E to 2 parts Screaming Eagle heavy.
What is Type E, some kind of fork oil? Is the SE heavy fork oil too?
 
oth are HD fork oils. Type is what's in it from the factory. If I remember correctly,

Type "E" 5wt
Type "B" 10wt
Screaming Eagle Heavy 15wt
Screaming Eagle Racing 20wt (not recommended for street)
 
I have fabricated the tool described and used the procedure in this link:

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The hardest for me was using the impact driver to get the drain screws out.
Pulling the fork tubes to do an oil change to me would be like pulling the engine to change the oil. Just sayin......

I can post a picture of the tool if anyone needs it.
 
I always replace the drain screws with new ones anyway. So if you have trouble removing the old ones, a pair of vice grips will grab the edge of the drain screws to get them loose.
 
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