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FN Cheap Cam install

Zipper's is no different than any aftermarket vendor and often offer solutions for problems that either don't exist or are only problems because the vendor so identifies them. The link you included and the quality issues described in the Zippers article to not apply to the SE plate which is billet aluminum and not a porous aluminum casting.

The MoCo mass produces motorcyles and outsources the manufacture of many of the internal motor components. There are a gazillion Harleys, stock and modified to some degree, running just fine and rolling up high miles on OEM parts, even the '07 up OEM cam plate. The MoCo didn't design an inferior cam plate; they designed a cam plate that is suitable for the power, and I use that term loosely, that a bone stock motor will make. Start increasing HP/TQ and that's why there is an SE Performance catalog; if you want to play, you gots to pay.

Back in #12, I pointed out that my objection to using the OEM cam plate, with performance cams, was that the outer cam journals are carried in the parent material of the cam plate vis the earlier cam plates that carried the outer cam journals in bearings. However, there are many that are running performance cams in the OEM cam plate without issues. I also pointed out in #12 that I would never run SE or OEM tappets (the "B" lifter being the exception) with performance cams.

There are DIY fixes to the OEM pressure relief valve sealing problem; if the problem exists. Drill and tap the valve and thread in a screw long enough to extend beyond the bore opening so it can be chucked up in a hand held battery powered drill, apply some valve lapping compound to the valve and spin in in the bore at the seat to improve the seal. Or replace it with the Axtell relief/bypass hardware which I have confirmed with some that have used it that it works as advertised. Still stuck with cams that are supported in the parent material of the cam plate though which is my biggest objection.

However, gazillions of OEM hydraulic tensioners running high mileage with no issues but remain a maintenance item. The Zipper's dual piston tensioners are definitely an improvement but, like the OEM tensioners, remain a maintenance item. Gear drive cams are the only way to eliminate tensioner maintenance and you can't do that with SE cams.

So, you have the option of replacing the OEM cam plate or making the above modifications to improve it or replacing the cam plate. I would replace it if installing performance cams, as you plan to do simply for the better outer support of the bronze bushings. If you are a belt and suspenders type, replace the tensioners with the Zipper's dual piston pieces. I would however, remove the pressure relief valve and polish it up before installation. The SE billet plate/pump combination PN 25282-11 is as good as any and includes the upgraded pump; reasonably priced if purchased from an online discount dealer.

If you have money to burn, replace the OEM cam plate/pump with the 25282-11 kit, install the cams, observe the chain rotation when you remove the OEM cams and replace the chains so they rotate in the same direction, drop in the +.030" pushrods, use your "B" lifters, re-use or replace the OEM tensioners if they look serviceable and call it good.

If you are trying to keep cost down which is indicated by the title of your OP, re-use all your OEM cam plate/pump parts, upgrade it as described above, use the +.030" pushrods, your "B" lifters and go.
 
If you are installing Rocker Lockers and want to use OEM pushrods, have at it; no right or wrong there. OEM pushrods are designed to preload the lifter to .100" whether or not that preload is sufficient to remove all lash from the valve train. Adjustables will allow more preload which can quiet down the valve train if lash is the issue. Don't want to upset your plan, so use the OEM pushrods and if the valve train is noisy, you can always cut them out and replace with adjustables........;)

No need to use adjustable pushrods with new lifters. A good quality lifter like S&S standards will help keep the valve train quiet. Stock oil pump is fine; just pay attention if you disassemble so that you get it back together properly. You will also need to "align" the oil pump as part of putting the cam chest back together. If you don't have the factory service manual for your bike, please get it before you start.....:)
Good advice here, you will definately want the service manual. I think youll like the 255 cams very "sreetable" nice torque down low.
 
Yes have all manuals thanks. Looking forward to the extra torque will be nice especially fully loaded.
 
I installed the SE255 cam when I did my "upgrade".
Already been running the Power Commander 3 but used a new MAP for SE mufflers, SE air cleaner and 255 cam.
Really woke up the bike.
Very happy.
 
So researching my parts for my cam swap I came across an ad in the Seattle CL for Harley mechanic. I went to his website and have talked to him personally and researched him a little more since our conversation. He is pretty young but has had quite an amazing career so far as a master technician. He has quoted me $400 for the cam install, including all the extras I have in mind with the swap. He said he will re-flash my ECM with a Dynojet PV for $200 and dyno tune for another $300. Seems reasonable for me especially not having to fork out the money for the PV. Also I figure in the money I would have to pay for tools to do the job myself and it seems even more reasonable to me.

Here is his bio of his site, http://www.capitolspeedshop.com/bio.html and a TV news report about him (have to give it a few secs to get started),


I found this guy also is a drag racer and placed 1st at the Mission Raceway on his 2011 Road Glide Ultra Classic in the NHRA Racing Series event that also hosted the Harley Davidson Racing Series in 9/14,
DRAGGIN BAGGER HARLEY - Marty Smestad, Seattle, Wash., '11 Harley, 12.365, 108.66 def. Clint Robb, Lloydminster, Alb., '04 Street Glider, 13.288, 97.11.

Really looking forward to working with Marty on my project.
 
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No reason to "re-flash" the ECM AND dyno tune; skip the flash and dyno tune.
 
No reason to "re-flash" the ECM AND dyno tune; skip the flash and dyno tune.[/QUOTE

That seems opposite of what you told me to do earlier. You told me to buy a PV and have it dyno'd.

Why tell me something different now?

The re-flash is being done with a PV. The tuner must have license to tune multiple bikes.
 
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Just to be clear; not telling you anything different. Maybe your choice of words is misleading?

You previous post indicated that you were being told that you would "re-flash" the ECM with the PV for $200 and then dyno tune for another $400 which sounds like two separate down load operations. There is no need to "re-flash" the ECM prior to dyno tuning; the tune will re-program (re-flash) the ECM, so why a $200 "re-flash" and then a $400 dyno tune?

You either by the PV and pay for the tune or your tuner will sell you a license (you will not buy the PV) and charge for the tune. Maybe he is selling the license for $200 and charging $400 for the tune?? Not the way it's done by my local tuner but every tuner does it differently I suppose. My tuner charges $450 for the license and the tune. The owner is then locked in to him for any future tunes via the license.;)
 
Yes I'm not quite sure on how he goes about the tuning process, will be meeting him soon to go over the details. So he charges $200 for flash and $300 for dyno so close to what your tuner charges. Cost of living probably a little higher in the Seattle area so probably charging close to same. He is charging me $400 for the cam install which I think is reasonable since he has to remove the exhaust and rockers and install new inner bearings etc.
 
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