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FN Cheap Cam install

Just some results from my SE255 cam and parts upgrade.
'07 Ultra 96CI.

Started with SE mufflers and SE air cleaner using Power Commander 3 with their canned MAP.
HP= 70.34
Torque=81.85

After installing the SE255 cam, keeping the same Stage One parts but using a new canned MAP from Power Commander.
HP=76.18
Torque=95.25

Dyno runs were all done on the same dyno, same dealer.
Some time was spent tweaking the settings by a tech who was familiar with the Power Commander.

The new canned MAP did wake up the engine.
I can break the clutch loose now so the increase in power is evident.
(New Barnett clutch and heavy duty disk coming the winter.)

Wasn't interested in HP gain as what I really wanted was more torque.
(Carring extra gear, passenger, etc.)
Happy with the results.
 
Have been fretting over which length of pushrod to use for my cam change and came across Zipper's instructions on setting lash.
http://www.zippersperformance.com/i...0/instructions_403_088_pushrod_adjustment.pdf
From what I'm reading they recommend setting lash from the bottom up 4 flats. My calculation of 4 flats is .0027 which is a preset of .173. It really makes sense but completely opposite of how other companies instruct on setting the lash. So with what they are stating using a +.030 perfect fit PR's is no problem and according to what they are saying it would be no problem using a +.060 perfect fit PR's. I don't think I would go longer but it really makes sense the way they explain it. Anybody else on board with their adjustment procedure?
 
The lifter piston travel is .200", so in effect you are running a solid lifter which is why very few pros use the Zippers procedure. Should you ever float a valve; bad juju. I prefer the conventional procedure and preload between .135"-.154". I told you the +.030 Perfect Fit pushrods would work but I would not run the +.060 rods.
 
dolt said:
The lifter piston travel is .200", so in effect you are running a solid lifter which is why very few pros use the Zippers procedure. Should you ever float a valve; bad juju. I prefer the conventional procedure and preload between .135"-.154". I told you the +.030 Perfect Fit pushrods would work but I would not run the +.060 rods.
Click to expand...

Yes Dolt I know you said it would work but wasn't sure on the variances. So at .130 should be fine and depending on the base circle measurements of my cams could be a slight difference. So looking online for a good buy on those PF's. Also have been researching the FP3 and see they have made lots of improvements since they first came out. They have a feature that you can add a cam and have about 50 in their database to date. Sent them an email to see if the SE-255 is one of them. Have read lots of reviews and really don't see a downside to that tuner. I also have been reading reviews on the powervision tuner and it seems to have mixed reviews. So will have to do some more research on that one.
 
A dealer or someone selling a used set of the PF +.030 pushrods is the only way to buy. Check Newcastle (formerly Zanotti's) and Boardtracker; both are online discount dealers.

I gave you all the reasons why the Powervision is a better tuner than the FP3 back in #12. The only way to properly tune is on a dyno; a map is no substitute. You know that there is no "one size fits all" except maybe for socks. Even two identically built motors will respond differently to the same map. You can trust me on this or let the internet drag you around on making that selection. You might be happy with the FP3 as many are; however, you and others will never know how much TQ/HP you could gain with a dyno tune.......:(
 
Just need to do more research on tuners. I am looking at the specs on the PV and it shows it is compatible with Windows XP/7 etc., seems a little out of touch to me. I know there are limitations to the FP3 but really it comes down to innovation. The FP3 is extremely innovative and simple using your phone/BT as the controller. Now if Dynojet would get on board with something similar I think I could get reeled in. I am one that realizes that to be happy and content in this world one must be able to compromise to some degree, if not you are always going to be chasing and never fully satisfied with anything. You don't always have to lick the plate clean!
 
Understood and will also add that, from what I hear, the VH customer support for the FP3 is pretty good. Innovation has nothing to do with an optimum tune. The old user unfriendly SERT would not be considered "innovative" but in the hands of a good tuner, optimum performance can be achieved. It used to take half a day and 20-40 dyno pulls to optimize a tune on a "built" motor; no base maps were available. Now, with a "close" base map, a couple of hours and fewer pulls are required to achieve an optimum tune. Dynojet will not follow suit because of the FP3 limitations; you can only do so much with a cell phone in a static situation which is very different from dyno tuning where a tuner can vary the rpms and load, watch the AFR in all throttle positions and adjust accordingly to optimize the tune.

I understand your upgrade is cam only upgrade and not an expensive one. However, as I said in a previous post, the whole purpose of any motor upgrade is usually to improve performance. So, I don't understand the logic behind not using the best tools available to get the most out of the upgrade? If an acceptable tune could be achieved with some software and a cell phone in a static situation, a lot of dynamometers would start collecting dust........:oops:
 
I don't disagree with what your saying Dolt. Like anything aftermarket for HD there is lots to pick from. So along with all the options is the research to find what suites your needs and budget. One look online in CL or Ebay you see so many parts from owners just throwing cash for the next best thing that sound or looks cool but sadly turns out to be the wrong thing. Thank god for those type of folks with the bottomless pockets cause I have scored a bunch. On the other hand I don't want to be listed in that category if you know what I mean.
 
So Zipper's got back to me with a link to a tech article on oil pumps, support plates whatnot and after reading I have to say I find it pretty interesting and revealing.
http://www.zippersperformance.com/i...l_doc_oiling_valve_train_issues_solutions.pdf
After reading this tech article I now have second thoughts on reusing my support plate. Obviously would have to thoroughly inspect mine once it is removed to make a decision. But if what they say in the article is true then why hasn't there been a recall. Not sure on the quality of the SE plate after reading the article either. I mean how do you trust a company to sell you something properly made when what they already sold you is subpar (even before you get it out the door). HD business model is definitely built on part and clothing sales to boost their profits. The bike itself is akin to a dealer selling you your first hit of whatever, waving you over, describing all the great experiences that await and before you know it you have bought it and now your hooked and crave more of what he has to sell. I know it's a silly analogy but it does have tiny bit of merit. But if you truly don't believe me just head over to your local dealership and check out the new models. Be very leery of the salesman with the gold chain and tooth! .........MY RANT FOR THE DAY
 
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