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Engine turns over but no fire

thanks jack will keep u posted

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hey thanks TQ the root of my problem can be summed up in three words MADE IN MEXICO.T CHOP WILL BE FOR SALE AS SOON AS I GET IT RUNNING GONNA BUY A STREET GLIDE.may need you and jacks help again to get it timed when i get the mod.in the meen time if there is any thing i can do for you guys just let me know THANKS AGAIN CSLISZ TAZ
 
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cslisz said:
hey thanks TQ the root of my problem can be summed up in three words MADE IN MEXICO.T CHOP WILL BE FOR SALE AS SOON AS I GET IT RUNNING GONNA BUY A STREET GLIDE.may need you and jacks help again to get it timed when i get the mod.in the meen time if there is any thing i can do for you guys just let me know THANKS AGAIN CSLISZ TAZ
Click to expand...

Check PM:s
 
As Jack said above, if the bushing that supports the outboard end of the camshaft is wallowed out, it might allow for that much movement. But that is a bunch to have the rotor moving to hit the slot in the back of the module.

Hard to check the end play exactly with the oil seal in place. But you can get a sense of whether there is a problem by putting the screw that hold the rotor on in the end of the camshaft and run it about 1/3 in. Then grab the head of the screw and see if you can make it move up and down, and left and right any significant amount. If it seems snug, don't sweat it. My guess is the rotor screw worked loose enough to allow movement which tore up the module.

But now you know what you need to do. Get the Crane, or Dyna, Spyke, or any other after-market ignition module that will work with your configuration (dual coil, single fire, VOES unit) and that you can find on sale. You just need something that will allow you to get timed spark to the plugs. All of these things work about the same way. They have minor differences in the built in curves they give you. Normally, the static timing procedure is spot on, so I wouldn't even bother with the timing light unless you are just a perfectionist!! Just get the bike on TDC of the compression stroke on the front cylinder, and then adjust the module until the timing light just barely comes on. Lock it down, button everything up, and fire that baby up!!

I have the Spyke unit on my '91 Dyna. I have had good luck with it, but not sure it is the cheapest option for you.

TQ
 
TQuentin1 said:
As Jack said above, if the bushing that supports the outboard end of the camshaft is wallowed out, it might allow for that much movement. But that is a bunch to have the rotor moving to hit the slot in the back of the module.

Hard to check the end play exactly with the oil seal in place. But you can get a sense of whether there is a problem by putting the screw that hold the rotor on in the end of the camshaft and run it about 1/3 in. Then grab the head of the screw and see if you can make it move up and down, and left and right any significant amount. If it seems snug, don't sweat it. My guess is the rotor screw worked loose enough to allow movement which tore up the module.

But now you know what you need to do. Get the Crane, or Dyna, Spyke, or any other after-market ignition module that will work with your configuration (dual coil, single fire, VOES unit) and that you can find on sale. You just need something that will allow you to get timed spark to the plugs. All of these things work about the same way. They have minor differences in the built in curves they give you. Normally, the static timing procedure is spot on, so I wouldn't even bother with the timing light unless you are just a perfectionist!! Just get the bike on TDC of the compression stroke on the front cylinder, and then adjust the module until the timing light just barely comes on. Lock it down, button everything up, and fire that baby up!!

I have the Spyke unit on my '91 Dyna. I have had good luck with it, but not sure it is the cheapest option for you.

TQ
Click to expand...

Have seen this happen before have seen the bolt get tightened too tight and snap off easy does it on this bolt if I remember right it is 5/16 diameter threads check the inch pound torque in tour manual:s
 
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