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Emissions Testing

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bobbylebay

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Recently returned from a loooooong deployment overseas. Took my bike in to get a new registration and was informed that I need an emissions test...bum deal, emissions test for a bike? ...Phoenix, AZ.

I failed the test and am looking for some insight to getting a passing grade.

I have a 97 1200 Sportster, it only has 2400 miles, however it was in the garage forever while I was deployed. I had to take the carb off and clean it up before the bike would even run. I installed new plugs, changed the oil/filter and put premium gas in before the test.

I see some people recommended running the bike hard before the test...however that's tough when there is an hour wait in line for my turn at the stall. I also was advised to put a bottle of rubbing alcohol in the tank.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Much!
 
Since you don't have cat converters on the bike, you need to know a few things. 1) What exactly are they measuring. It most likely is either % of carbon monoxide OR Hydrocarbon in PPM OR even both. 2) What numbers are passing numbers. 3) What were you failing numbers. 4) Is test performed at Idle, or at a steady speed.

Find out::: What they measure. What are passing numbers. What your failing numbers were. What RPM the test is performed at. Once you know that, you will know how close/far you are from passing. Then you will know how to approach the problem.
 
When you give the Boys above the information they need, Remember It is Easy to replace main and idle jet Temporary to Lean it out... If that is what is needed, Thats my guess....

signed....BUBBIE
 
Bobbylebay - Welcome to the HDTimeline forum and your first post. As others have asked...What portion of the mandated test did you fail...NO2, CO2 or Unburned Hydrocarbons (air/fuel mixture) at what throttle opening. Was it EPA noise (not that owners would "slip on" anything non compliant.

Did they say what criteria they used for pass fail criteria? If you can post a printout sample that would be really cool. As a side note, my brother in law just called me and is also in AZ and wouldn't you know, his bike just failed also, and that was with a totally "stock" Suzuki Katana carbureted, air and oil cooled motocycle as well.
 
Thanks for the input. It appears to have failed the Carbon Monoxide portion of the test. I scanned the MVD printout and attempted to paste it here...not much luck with that?
It doesn't appear to indicate that whether it failed the idle or 2200 RPM portion of the test.
 
bobbylebay said:
It doesn't appear to indicate that whether it failed the idle or 2200 RPM portion of the test.
Click to expand...

I don't know how the test is conducted. Your not with the bike during the test?

There are several ways to lower your CO in small jumps or in large jumps but can't be of much help without more info from you.
 
The bike passed the Hydrocarbons portion of the test.
It repeatedly failed the Carbon Monoxide portion of the test at idle. If it does not pass idle, you don't even get to attempt the 2nd portion at 2200 rpm.
I am with the bike throughout the test.
The standard is 5.50 at idle. I was at 7.43
I put a bottle of octane boost in and went back for a second attempt. Still failed, pretty much the same results. I drained that tank of gas, put a fresh gallon in with a bottle of 91% rubbing alcohol. Failed again.
I read a post that suggested leaning out the air fuel mixture for the test, as the bike may be running rich. I cannot find the air/fuel mixture screw. Is it inside the carb on a
97 Sportster? I see an idle screw, and a screw at the bottom of the carb. My understanding is that I loosen this screw to drain any problematic sediment from the carb...when I loosen the screw fuel runs out the drain hose onto the pavement.
 
Carbon monoxide should be looked at as Air fuel ratio only. Improving the combustion process will not lower your % of CO.
Your CO is 7.43% which means your A/F ratio is 11.8 to 1 and a passing grade needs to be 12.4 to 1 or higher.
Since you only need 1 full percent point at idle to know you will pass, you have a couple of ways to approach it.

1) I have no experience with HD carbs but I am sure some other members could tell you what jet sizes to install to knock down the A/F ratio by at least 1 ratio point for both idle and cruise RPM's.

2) Temporarily allow a calibrated vacuum leak into the intake manifold. Any vacuum leak will instantly increase your A/F to the high side across the board (idle& cruise). There are Lots of ways you can do that and this is a Quick and dirty way to pass the test.

Also, Clean out your tank from that rubbing Alky and octane boost. If you overdid the octane boost your HC will go up and make matters worse.
 
I better add what I meant by a calibrated vacuum leak. Take a small piece of small hobby brass tubing and close off one end. Drill a small hole (say 1/16th") into 1 side of the tubing. Using a short piece of rubber tubing insert this into a port below the carb butterfly. This air leak will Lift the idle. Adjust the size of the hole to get maybe a couple of hundred RPM lift. Now lower the idle back down to normal using the stop screw for idle.
You now have a calibrated vacuum leak. You may have to play with the size of the hole in the brass tubing to get the RPM lift your looking for. Once you do, bring it back down using the stop screw.

A leak that lifts the RPM by maybe 200 RPM should put you in the ballpark.

I could be more accurate with RPM lift and hole size if this was a cage engine but 1 ratio point should not be hard to compensate for. Good Luck!
 
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