EFI Idle problem

[Fisherking]

Im getting a code that reads on my power vision that says EFI idle problem . I had an injector go on the weekend and replaced with one a friend gave me . I thought it might have been the short injector harness so I soldered in a length of wire. but to get the wires short enough I had to take apart and solder right to the conections . so I might be having a problem with the injector harness conector shorting out .
It also surges on throtlle.
Would this give me a EFI Idlle problem code ?

Thanks F.K.

 

[dbmg]

Have you checked the bike for any faults in the ECM?

 

[joel]

Unplug the injector harness in question, ohm test the injector, auto injectors range between 12 to 18 ohms, do this cold and when hot.
Use a couple jumper wires 10 inches long so you can test for a triger signal with a test light or a spare turn signal lamp. Start the engine, it should flash. If you can hold the jumper wires tight in the connector and wiggle your repair area to see if it changes the flash pattern.

 

[Jeff Klarich]

Try the wiggle test on the injector wires while it's running. You may still have a bad wire that's making intermittent contact.
Check for any codes on the bike itself, don't rely entirely on what the power vision says.

 

[Fisherking]

Try the wiggle test on the injector wires while it's running. You may still have a bad wire that's making intermittent contact.
Check for any codes on the bike itself, don't rely entirely on what the power vision says.

The power vision just interprets the codes from the ECM but yes it was getting late when i was butoning it up so I could of mised a wire.

Thanks F.K.

 

[TQuentin1]

If all that checks out, have you checked the IAC?

See here:

Cheers,

TQ

 

[Fisherking]

If all that checks out, have you checked the IAC?

See here:

Cheers,

TQ

Im getting a new one today to try out .
My buddy scott had a good point . it seems like it starts to run like cr#p at about rpm . he told me thats clasic low fuel pressure. he told me to check my intank fuel lines .

F.K.

 

[Jeff Klarich]

Im getting a new one today to try out .
My buddy scott had a good point . it seems like it starts to run like cr#p at about rpm . he told me thats clasic low fuel pressure. he told me to check my intank fuel lines .

F.K.

You're getting a new IAC? Try cleaning it like in the video TQ posted. Takes just a few minutes.


IAC - Idle Air Control - An electric valve or stepper motor that's threaded, one turn of the valve is called a "step". It's controlled by output signals from the ECM to open and close as needed to allow enough air into the engine for starting and idle operation. It's function is to bypass the throttle blade in the intake and allow enough air to bypass the throttle blade to run the engine.(Throttle closed) The more steps, the greater the amount of air enters the engine through the IAC passages. It's that black unit you can see just inside and over the top of the air cleaner.
From time to time they get gummed up from the oil mist that enters from the engine breathers and need to be cleaned out. If you look inside the throttle body there's a hole in the upper portion and that is what needs to be cleaned out. You'll usually see some black gunk come out when you clean it. The problem it gives you when it needs cleaning is an erratic idle speed and stalling and usually does not set a code unless they fail.
A can of carb cleaner will do the trick here. One thing is to blow the carb cleaner out with some low pressure air or the other sensors in the intake will set codes from the carb cleaner.
If you don't have any low pressure air to blow it out, just let it air dry for a while before turning on the ignition.

If you do a fuel regulator test I believe the numbers you should be looking for is 58-62 psi.

 

[HDDon]

Nice post Jeff.

 

[Fisherking]

You're getting a new IAC? Try cleaning it like in the video TQ posted. Takes just a few minutes.


IAC - Idle Air Control - An electric valve or stepper motor that's threaded, one turn of the valve is called a "step". It's controlled by output signals from the ECM to open and close as needed to allow enough air into the engine for starting and idle operation. It's function is to bypass the throttle blade in the intake and allow enough air to bypass the throttle blade to run the engine.(Throttle closed) The more steps, the greater the amount of air enters the engine through the IAC passages. It's that black unit you can see just inside and over the top of the air cleaner.
From time to time they get gummed up from the oil mist that enters from the engine breathers and need to be cleaned out. If you look inside the throttle body there's a hole in the upper portion and that is what needs to be cleaned out. You'll usually see some black gunk come out when you clean it. The problem it gives you when it needs cleaning is an erratic idle speed and stalling and usually does not set a code unless they fail.
A can of carb cleaner will do the trick here. One thing is to blow the carb cleaner out with some low pressure air or the other sensors in the intake will set codes from the carb cleaner.
If you don't have any low pressure air to blow it out, just let it air dry for a while before turning on the ignition.

If you do a fuel regulator test I believe the numbers you should be looking for is 58-62 psi.

Yes i had done that a few times last year didn't really help much .
I found out what was wrong .
My injector must have been going for a while . I kept doing tunes on the bike and I guess it was compensating for the bad injector. w
Well i loaded my original tune and the bike started and idled great . So I did a tune on that and the bike is running amazing .
What a releif.

F.K.