free website stats program Dyna FI to Carburetor | Harley Davidson Forums

Dyna FI to Carburetor

S

sgmfisher

Member
The other day I was trying to get some info on this subject and Glider gave me this lead - From EFI to Carburetor Upgrade Instructions - The product looked pretty good but somewhat high. About $700.00 looked high to me. Since then I located - Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) and Performance Parts for Harley Davidson and VTwin Motorcycles - for $339.00 and talked to Jeff at their location. It appears to do the same job as the German product at a lesser price. One difference is that you have to use their coils vs. OEM coils. I don't think this would make a difference since they're under the coil cover anyway. The German unit seems to be some more flexable in location also. Does anyone have any feed back for me as to the us of the use of the Thunder Max twin cam stand alone ignition system in conversion from fuel injection to carburetor?? Glider ?? Oh, I have a '06 Wide Glide. In the wind.
Pops
 
I have no knowledge of the subject so afraid I cant be much help. I am more curious than anything. Why would you want to go from EFI to a carb? Are there certain advantages to the carb that you are after?
 
I guess I'm just old timey. I want my engine to run and idle my way, after all I gave good money for the bike. I think to be able to richen it up a little would make the engine run cooler, it always used to. I think that to lower the idle speed down to about 700 to 750 would make shifting into1st gear at stop smother and easier. I think shifting from 1st or 2nd into neutral would be easier at lower rpm idle. I think a lower idle would create less engine heat in traffic. I think that my carbs never had engine over run when I shut the throtle down. After about 55 yrs of bike I just don't like machines taking over every part of everything I own. My bike is my last bastion of independence. I would rather take a carb apart 10 times to get it jetted right than take it to a dealer everytime it hickuped. I would like to get rid of the fuel pump and to back to gravity feed and a manual tank petcock. To tell the truth, I never had a problem with duel points and coils. Now you know why I want to change back. Now with the twin cam engines, there isn't anyway to do points anymore. The same reason a lot of old timers keep there shovel heads and early Evolutions. I had my Evo set up for a duel fire point system. Had to get rid of my Harley for economic reasons and can't replace it. I have this one now and just want to make it my way. I may even put a springer under it befor someone decides to outlaw them. In the wind.

Pops
 
sgmfisher said:
I guess I'm just old timey. I want my engine to run and idle my way, after all I gave good money for the bike. I think to be able to richen it up a little would make the engine run cooler, it always used to. I think that to lower the idle speed down to about 700 to 750 would make shifting into1st gear at stop smother and easier. I think shifting from 1st or 2nd into neutral would be easier at lower rpm idle. I think a lower idle would create less engine heat in traffic.
Click to expand...

I'm no mechanic and don't claim to be, but I do have some experience so my opinion on trying to make your bike idle at 700-750 to create less engine heat in traffic, might not be correct. I believe the oil pump needs to be idling at about 900-950 rpm minimum to function properly. If you get your bike idling too low, your oil light is gonna come on because you won't have enough oil pressure, and instead of it cooling down, I'd think it would get hotter. Can't you make the fuel mixture richer by adding one of those TFI things that I know absolutely nothing about???
 
Don't think so. The new motors have a high pressure oil system. They should cary 750 rpm ok. The old motors would idle down to 400 rpm in good tune and the light would flicker. The oil pressure sender was set about 8 lbs. I think. Another reason lower rpm will lower temp is that piston speed is higher on a long stroke motor than a short stroke motor. If all else fails, I'll add oil pressure, oil temperature, and head temp. gauges along with a oil cooler. All this stuff is no problem. In the wind.

Pops
 
I have been following this thread and I have to say that a low idle (below 950rpm) is something I would not try. Everything I have read on the twin cam oiling system points to problems with a low idle.
 
Well, I certainly stand corrrected about the Dyna engine. I guess Harley is getting to be more UJM than I wanted to beleive. I will still stay on my quest to control the feeding of the beast but maybe from the aspect of a fuel controller aspect instead. Possibly a replacement FI controller or something like V&H fuel pack would be more in line. I wanted to stay away from computer links if possible. Either that or get rid of it and try to locate a late model shovel head or a mid model evolution.Thanks all for the return input. In the wind.

Pops
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top