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White_Rider

White_Rider

Member
it's been fun and interesting the last month.... my speedo went off on me and said i was abusing it by running too slow and it spun out of control and broke the needle off, guess i didn't need it anyway:18: Then my plugs want to foul out on me again so i get new ones and the only difference on them is that under the stock number it has "11", figured eh why not, nope they fouled after about 100 miles so crap i'm out again. any recommended plugs for the 89" S&S that only has threads for 5/8 plugs? the plugs I had before that lasted an amazing 3 months were NGK ~BCPR6ES, the 100 mile plugs are ~BCPR6ES-11. A shop told me my S&S carb is screwed, but they can't find whats wrong with it, is this possible i wonder? When i look at the carb it smiles and says just put the right plugs in the freakin engine man! :shock
 
The 11 in the number stands for a wider gap , 1.1mm (.044”). The stock plug runs .038-.042. Could be too wide of a gap for the engine.
I would try to figure out why the carb is dumping too much gas to foul them out first. Could be a bad float or float setting allowing too much gas, oversize jetting or just bad tuning that is hurting the mixture.
Have you owned this bike when it ran properly and didn't foul plugs? How's the performance, soggy not crisp?
Maybe call S&S and find out what plug they suggest for that motor, it may solve everything. The lower the number (5 th digit) the hotter the plug. Could be the wrong heat range.

This is the breakdown on your plug now which sounds as if it could be too cold of a plug causing the fouling.

B= 14mm
C= Hex Size 5/8”
P= Projected Insulator type
R= Resistor
6= Heat range
E= 19 mm (3/4”)
S= Standard 2.5mm center electrode
 
S & S has used the following spark plugs in V2-Style Long Blocks in past years,
Autolite 4265, Champion RN12YC, Harley-Davidson 5R6A, and NGK BPR 4ES.
Your application may be different,but look at the heat range in the NGK plug, that's why a call to them would be best before trying them.
 
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Yeah so i forgot to mention that i got side swiped by a cager in a white caddy suv, lucky for me my clutch handle scraped his suv and left a nice reminder to look out for bikes and my left foot hit his rear mud flap thing, it was crazy to see a cager on my left nearly knocking me around at 40 mph....

now, i've had the bike since may of this year. I have a ton of reciepts that lead me to believe the one and only other owner is passed on, ~RIP at your resting grounds in Valhalla Brother~ so I havn't had it too long. The bike sat for about 2 1/2 years i think.... it ran nicely when i first picked it up, then i had my clutch cable break by the tranny case so i took it to a shop and had it fixed and after that it's been nothing but fouling, i know they messed with the carb but i'm not sure why. When i had gotten it back the carb almost sounded like it was winding? Very odd i know, then i met another TRUSTED guy and he set it on the dyno with new plugs and it was beautiful, except him telling me he couldn't figure out the carb deal, he said it was like someone tried some crap out of a magazine to make it hotrod and not to go over 4 rpm or it would foul the plugs quickly. right now i need to pull the plugs and try a smaller gap. Most of the time it is crisp and runs like a midnight train with no stopping. ** I gap the plugs @ 40, i have pulled them before and had noticed they are at a different setting like going down to 37 and 38 i figured the compression was causing the change but i'm still not sure, they don't seem to be hitting the pistons, no marks or anything.
 
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With what you just said, it sounds as if you may need to clean out the carb. Sounds as if it is feeding too much gas past the needle and seat from being kept open with sediment or something. Worth a look.
 
I took a very hard look at the ngk website it seems to have pointed me the right way, just to try it out is the only obstacle now. My BCPR6ES-11 is a colder plug made to be gapped at 0.44, seems to explain the quick foul out, too cold and all the gunk built up on it, looked at the difference in a wet fouling plug i.e. too lean or rich, or a dry fouling plug i.e. plug not hot enough. I attempted to start the machine and pulled the plugs, they were as dry as an empty beer bottle. The plugs I found on the site are #BPR5ES-11 Standard type, & #BPR5EIX-11 Iridium type <----- These seem to be the good deal, there is a fine point on the tips that helps to reduce plug fouling. & these plugs are made to be properly gapped @ 0.40

Thanks for the comments leading my buzzed self to the proper areas today/night Glider, appreciate it.
 
I took a very hard look at the ngk website it seems to have pointed me the right way, just to try it out is the only obstacle now. My BCPR6ES-11 is a colder plug made to be gapped at 0.44, seems to explain the quick foul out
Click to expand...

That's where I was going in post #2.

Be sure to let us know if this was the problem.

Thanks
 
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glider said:
With what you just said, it sounds as if you may need to clean out the carb. Sounds as if it is feeding too much gas past the needle and seat from being kept open with sediment or something. Worth a look.
Click to expand...

After setting for 2 1/2 years First thing I'd have done was rebuild J&P part # 400-880 not clean the carb and replace the plugs and wires. For plugs I like Autolite 3924 for your application and Taylor spark plug wire set part # 382-338 from J&P
 
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I could not get the plugs that I wanted without special ordering them so to save some time and gas the kid behind the counter found an NGK plug that I hadn't seen before. The plug # is BKR5EGP, this plug has the anti fouling tip like the iridium plugs I wanted but uses platinum instead. I installed these bad boys and so far they are good. I've been able to start my bike @39 degrees F. without using starter fluid or a jump battery. As far as hesitations from twisting the throttle wide open there hasn't been any. It's been nice to feel the power trying to throw me off the bike again. If anything changes in the situation I'll be sure to post it........
 
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