Displacement Upgrades and Cams

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by LeviTC88, Dec 13, 2010.

  1. LeviTC88

    LeviTC88 Member

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    This post is for a friend. He has a 2003 Electraglide Classic FLHTCI and is looking at increasing engine displacement. And upgrading cams to match the bigger cubes of the engine.

    My question is what combinations is everyone running? Big-bore and/or stroker kits? Cams, brand and profile? And what fuel controller? And what kind of bike is the motor in, dresser or softail? And how well does it run? Are you pleased? If you had it to do over again what would you change?

    Just want to get info on what everyone is running and if they like it. Thanks!
     
  2. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    If mine, I would do a free flowing Exhaust along with SE air,TFI, Big Bore (buy 95" barrels) Higher compression pistons SE teflon coated panels at 10./1...

    Cams for low end torque ,,, I would use andrews 21's,26's or SE 255's and SE slim tapered adjustable push rods. Not bother with much else...

    Head work can be done Or just checked and a Fresh grind on valves.... Flowing the heads using larger valves will add a lot to any build but $$$$ more. It will run just fine if Heads kept stock with this type of build.

    Conversion to the Newer style "KIT" (modern High volume oil pump and cam plate w/Hydraulic tensioner design)(a good buy with Most Needed parts to convert) to do away with the troubled SHOE Design in the older pre 07 big bikes..

    This would make the bike Powerful and road worthy for a long time..

    If you go with a PROVEN Build (like above), using the Right combinations like above, The bike will run good and last a long time.

    Stroking an engine in MY opinion is NOT the way to go.... A lot MORE $$ involved to buy parts and the WHOLE motor has to come apart .... The build I suggested is only working the top end and side cam area Not splitting the engine a + for this build.

    One OF Many ways to go... But use PROVEN COMBINATIONS Only!

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  3. TripleJ

    TripleJ Senior Member

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    Oh boy with 39,923 members this could take awhile :D.

    I am running nothing more than V&H True Dual Exhaust, Stage one A/C, Power Commander PCV and S.E.255 Cams and I am quite pleased with the performance. Maybe someday I will do a big bore kit, but for now thats it.
     
  4. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    TripleJ,

    That sound a little like the way I'm doing my 09 FLHR. I plan to put quite a few miles on the build, using the original 96" for now stage 2 and using SE255 cams,,,, Then going 103 later and Maybe a little more compression (10.25/1) with reliefs installed for the easy start..

    Great way to go and Easy to plan ahead our way.

    The above bike in question has a lot more goodies to get it to the quality that our newer bikes came with ie; the Hydraulic tensioner now instead of Shoes, and the higher flowing, larger gerotors oil pump are all good things that came standard with Newer 07's and up..

    I went with gear drive cams in a 2000 FXDS with 95" big bore,SE 10.25/1 pistons,heads ported/flowed and Larger Manly valve/springs set to SS570's gear drives...
    SE Air/Python3 exhaust with a SE advanced racing programable tuner.... That build Cost MORE back then,,, when NO "KIT" was offered to Hydraulic conversion like OFFERED today..(KIT a good deal for 429$$)

    Boy did It cost More... Just the feuling oil pump and their lifters along with a delkron cam support plate were over 800$$... plus gear Drive cams with other needed parts.

    I put a 6 speed gear set into that bike and ran it for a long time... HOT :D

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  5. jaxdwg

    jaxdwg Active Member

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    I did the 95"/9.4:1 with teflon coating, se 211 cams, the camplate upgrade (which you already have) and 2into1 exhaust. It aint a dragster but the power is a lot more than stock and is way nice on the twist-on so far (10k). starts good without compression releases and only takes about 8 hrs to do. Just do this and go up one size on the main jet or have it dynoed if injected and your friend should be quite happy. the bike has 104k on it
     

    Attached Files:

  6. geezer

    geezer Senior Member Contributor

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    Starts good without compression releases and only takes about 8 hrs to do. I wouldn't call that an easy starter. LOL. Had to read it twice to get it. Great looking ride!
     
  7. Fossil

    Fossil Active Member

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    Adding horsepower will cost a minimum of$150 per horse power. For a touring bike you need to go for the torque.
     
  8. R.Bingham

    R.Bingham Active Member

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    What is your buddies goal for doing this upgrade? What is his budget?

    I for one would not split the cases to stroke the motor. The 95 in motors are a good motor. There are a lot of proven builds out there.

    One of these days I would like to do the BB upgrade. I had originally planned on doing a Joe Minton build.
    Elements of Power - Torque - and how to get some
    This is a good reliable motor that is usually more than enough power for most. I have seen where people have added ported heads and SE 1.725 rockers and made 100/100 with this build.

    When I got rid of my old style tennsioners I went with the Andrews 21 as a foundation for that build. Unfortunately it will be a while before I can complete this upgrade as we just got hit with a lot of medical bills.

    In the time since I started the upgrade process I have seen some really nice combos. A friend of mine went with the AMS 96 in BB kit with the Andrews 26 and he is happy with it.
    Automotive Machine Supply - Parts for Harley Motorcycles

    Another great combo that has me drooling is a build that Deweys Heads does with the Woods TW5-6
    2002 FXD 95 C.I.
    I would just love to have this set up.

    As far as fuel management probably the Master Tune TTS would be the best for the open loop ecm of the 03. I would talk to whoever is going to do the tune and get their input on what the like best.
    5 Questions To Ask Your Engine Tuner - Harley Davidson Community

    To summarize this I would say that I would look for a build that has a lot of torque down low especially since this is for a heavy bagger.

    Randall
     
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