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Dead in the water?

I wondered about the Crank Sensor, I removed it from the block and there is no visual (but appears that a visual would tell me anything anyway). I unplugged it from behind the regulator/rectifier and the connection looked great.

I also wonder about the cam tensioner. I have heard many times that they are notorious on these early twin cams for slacking up. The bulk of the engine mods were done in 2005 when the bike had about 35000 miles on it. The SE 251 cams were installed then and I assume they would have changed the tensioner at that time. Then the bike was worked on again in 2006 and already had 46000 miles on it. The 2006 job included a top end job, cylinder bore, new piston etc. I have the job tickets from the Harley Dealer in Mt. Vernon, IL and all in all the work totalled up to about $7500. The owner seemed to cut no corners. My uncle-in-law simply bought it and rode it. He did nothing but maintenance.

Part of the build that I am unsure of was the race tuner. What is this thing and where is it. Is it still on the bike, or are they just talking about computer tuning. All of these are questions for me. I tried to talk tot the Harley Shop that built the thing, but they would prefer me to bring it in and pay them to look at it. Honestly I can't blame them in this economy, but that's not how I roll with any of my other vehicles.

I am planning to exhaust the simple things before tearing into the top end. Does anyone know a way to bench test the ckp?

Also, I have noticed a significant amount of valve train noise since I bought the bike. I tried to readjust the pushrods (backing them off and then setting preload to .100 (2 1/2 turns) with no change). I have the old style SE adjustables that apparently interfered on occasion with the rocker covers. I learned that they have been superseded by the new style tapered adjustables. When I adjusted them, it appeared that the front outside rod was slighlty bent (had a little side-to-side when I twisted it). I didn't think too much about it because the bike ran so good and I put 4500 miles on it this summer before it quit running. Also, it's not like I was into it hard at all when it quit, I was actually trying to be quiet because it was so early in the morning.
 
If you noticed a bent push rod that is where I would checking. Have you opened the push rod tubes yet to have a peek.
Ken
 
I looked at them quickly but was looking for something more catastrophic like a collapsed lifter or broken valve spring. I.e. I was only looking for vertical play or looseness in the pushrods. As i said, I noticed the slight bend before, but it still ran as if nothing was wrong. I will look again this weekend. May be a while before I get back on here, work is crazy for me right now.

Thanks again to everyone for the welcome and suggestions
 
Well, I have an update here...

I have changed the plugs, and now have fire to both cylinders (a fat blue spark every time). I have opened the pushrod tubes and pulled the lifters for a visual inspection. everything looked great so I reinstalled them and readjusted the pushrods. Still won't run.

I started over in a way and went back to check for fuel. I think that when I first checked for this, I may have been a little flustered and gotten the plugs mixed up. I checked this again (pulled both wires off and cranked it for 4-5 rev's) The front plug was coated with fuel, but the back plug was dry. BTW, I also figured out that the bike will run on the front cylinder and sounds pretty smooth doing it if you take the rear plug cable off.

I pulled the crank sensor, checked it for AC output and found it to have 1.25 volts AC. My digital multimeter did not pick up any variance (like from the missing teeth) but I figure the meter doesn't take readings often enough. I also checked continuity and found it to be great between the ckp plug behind the regulator and the ecm plug. That led me to believe that the sensor is ok beacause if I am getting a fat blue spark at both plugs, the sensor must be working, right? I am hoping that I can eliminate the ignition side of things at this point.

On to the fuel issue, I have read alot about pressure regulator housings, fuel filters, etc. but if I am getting ample fuel to the front cylinder, I am led to believe that the fuel supply is o.k. to the intake (i.e. fuel rail). If it was weak, neither injector would be working, right? I have also read that a common problem involved the injector wiring and this is my next course of action. Pull the tank, check the harness and if I don't find an obvious problem, swap the injectors to see if the problem moves to the front cylinder.

Before I do this...does anyone know if this problem could be a "limp mode" thing or something else (bas sensor effect). Just wondering if I am heading in the right direction here.

Thanks, Gary
 
When I retrieved the codes, I got 24 & 25. My manual says that this is front and rear coil, but I understand that it could be set by lack of combustion.

Well, I swapped the injectors and got the same result. If I turn it over a few times without the coil hooked up, the front plug is wet and back one is dry. Also, it will still run on the front cylinder if the rear plug wire is disconnected.

:panic
 
As to why you don't seem to have fuel to the one cylinder, that might be a bad injector or injector circuit. Do you have any other confirmations of this other than the plug being dry ?

When you try to crank the engine are you trying to give it any throttle ?

Sometimes if the IAC is bad the bike won't start unless you give it some throttle.
 
R W B, the rear plug remains bone dry, as it was before I switched places with the front injector tonight. I also did a continuity test with plenty of wiggles while I had it apart. Continuity tests out great for both injectors and both injectors test the same with an ohmmeter.

I am wondering at this point if there is a way to test the output signal to the rear injector from the ecm without having to pierce a wire (I hate piercing wires).

I do have to give some throttle to get it to run though, I will take the IAC off and give it a good cleaning tomorrow.
 
R W B, the rear plug remains bone dry, as it was before I switched places with the front injector tonight. I also did a continuity test with plenty of wiggles while I had it apart. Continuity tests out great for both injectors and both injectors test the same with an ohmmeter.

I am wondering at this point if there is a way to test the output signal to the rear injector from the ecm without having to pierce a wire (I hate piercing wires).

I do have to give some throttle to get it to run though, I will take the IAC off and give it a good cleaning tomorrow.

Harley Davidson Community this might help
 
I've read about those lites Jack, do you know where they sell them ?

SimsHD you can test your IAC connection to see if you have damaged wiring, I forgot what the amount of ohms are but if (WITH IGNITION OFF) you pull the IAC and Ohmmeter test each terminal to ground, you should be reading some megaohms or the connection is shorted.
 
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