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Dead bike after riding

the battery is only 1 year old, and when tested, it has a full charge.

How are you testing it. Going by the green light on the tender is meaningless. A Tender can not check the capacity (amp/hr) of the battery.

Place a handheld voltmeter directly across the battery. Leave tender off battery. Voltage should be at least 12.5 volts. Watch the voltage when turning on the ignition switch and headlight. If voltage falls like a rock, the battery is bad. It must stay above 11.0 with lights on.
 
My husband had a maintenance guy at work test it the battery. The keys in the fob have been replaced recently. I tried both fobs just in case one had died. Talking to my husband, they only checked the positive cable, so, once I can get it home, I am going to take the battery out, take the cables off, and clean all of them just to make sure. I am going to re-check the fuses, especially the maxi-fuse. So, for now, I will just have to wait for someone to transport it home. Thank you everyone for all the advice. I will update once I can get the battery and cables off, and the fuses thoroughly checked.
 
Ok. Someone is supposed to be loading up the bike and bringing it home tonight. I have composed a checklist of things to start off with. Please let me know if there are any other things (simple) that I can also do:
*Take off both battery cables and remove all corrosion
*check 15 amp fuses
*check 30 amp Maxi-fuse
*recheck FOB batteries

The battery voltage was tested and everything checked out. My husband was "supposed" to check both battery cables, but "the negative one was too hard to get to." (Some men, lol) They checked the fuses, but I think I will just do that again so I can make sure. I read something in regards to checking the starter relay...how DO you do that? Also, the spark plugs were replaced in April 2012. How often do those need replaced? I can do the easy stuff myself. I just need a bit of instruction. I do know both rocker boxes have leaks, but was told by the mechanic that it would be better to have something like that done at the shop since I am new to fixing things. I just gotta come up with the $175 (tops) to fix it. After that, I am gonna attempt my 1st (on my own) oil change! Sorry for the long post. Thanks for all the help!
 
Got the bike home. My brother came and helped get the battery off. The negative terminal had some corrosion. Cleaned it up and she purrs again. I am one happy biker! Thanks!
 
Good deal...the battery cables on a Sporty are horrible to access. I never enjoyed battery removal on my 05 XL1200...glad you got things figured out; ride-on!
 
I had an 03 1200 Sportster and always kept a pair of pliers and a little sand paper in the saddlebags. Every now and then it would not start, and all I had to do was clean those battery posts to get it running again. Some of the old timers told me I should run a secondary ground wire to the frame to avoid this problem but I never got a round to it.
Good Luck!

:44:
 
Got the bike home. My brother came and helped get the battery off. The negative terminal had some corrosion. Cleaned it up and she purrs again. I am one happy biker! Thanks!

Good deal...the battery cables on a Sporty are horrible to access. I never enjoyed battery removal on my 05 XL1200...glad you got things figured out; ride-on!

good deal, late joining group.
was it corroded at the frame or battery?
A lot of times that's the way a loose connection will act. Or you will have the lights burning at normal brightness, and hitting the start button will open the connection worse.Sometimes you can turn the key on and observe the lights, and wiggle the cable(s),and if you see the lights brighten, there is your loose connection.
Seen it on cars 100's of times too.
My 02 battery is a pain to remove too, in a way.
 
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