Cruise Control Will Not Set

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by propflux01, Nov 4, 2013.

  1. propflux01

    propflux01 Active Member

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    Hello,
    Got a problem with the CC on my '03 Ultra. Had been working just fine until my last two rides. the "C" comes up when I try to set it, but doesn't hold. I pulled the codes on it and 213, lots of 122 and 113. Most of these seem fairly normal reasons for the CC to be disengaged. Brake lights work perfect, even when trying to shake the levers. Tried the CC reset and didn't change anything. I have not done anything handlebar-wise or anything else for that matter maintenance-wise. Puling wire off of throttle cable made no difference in operation or testing.

    I am stumped on where to check next.:dknow

    Also, all other electronics work, speedo, tach, etc. No check engine light has or is illuminated
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 4, 2013
  2. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Try clearing the dropout buffer log. Then go back in & see what dropout code posts first when you try to set the CC while riding.

    To clear buffer: While in the diagnostics mode, holding the Cruise Switch at RESUME for a period of 10 seconds or more will clear or erase the dropout code buffer.
     
  3. propflux01

    propflux01 Active Member

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    I did what you said. the one that came up first is the code for the cap switch. That is the first thing I did when I tried to engage the cruise and it didn't work, so I turned off the cap switch and turned back on.

    I took A/C off and saw cable had about 1/2 inch slack in it. Broke out the book and tried cable lash initialization. Started bike but no increase in RPM noted, nor any cable movement. pulled on cable slightly to see if cable was broken or whatnot, it doesn't seem to be.

    Bad module?
     
  4. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    So the Only code that was stored was a 113 (cap switch off). Is the bike carb or injected. What's the model code (FLHT, FLTR, FLHTC etc)

    When you performed the initialization, did you get the expected response in step "d" (Start the engine. The green Cruise Engaged Lamp (capital letter ā€œCā€) on the tachometer gauge will illuminate. Wait 3 seconds for the lamp to go off)
    Did any of that happen.
     
  5. propflux01

    propflux01 Active Member

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    No, the others came as well, brake code, and my coast below 30mph. I made sure I noted each time that I did something such as hitting brakes, cap switch, etc.

    Yes, lights came on for three seconds as advertised. Book then says release cruise switch from "resume" position, then put it back in "resume" and Hold. Then it pulls in and rpm should go up. Mine doesn't do anything...
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Reason I asked is because schematics are different.
     
  7. propflux01

    propflux01 Active Member

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    It is an ultra classic. FLHTCUI. I have both the electrical manual and the service manual for it and have been chasing wires so far.

    On the tests shown for "Cruise Inoperative Diagnosis" (that I have also seen published here in other threads) consists of basically holding the RESUME switch in while turning on ignition and going through various steps. Step 5 and 6, applying the brakes while watching the cruise light come on and then disengage after releasing brakes, does not work on mine at all. But I noticed also it says on step 1, to "connect speedometer tester (HD-41354)". Since my brake lights function as advertised, I am thinking that step 5 & 6 require that this speed tester be utilized in order to work?

    So after this, I just started ohming out wires and checking for power. B+ is getting to the unit, Brake switches apply power to pin "G" when either brake is applied, throttle cable has B+ to pin "D" when roll-off switch is engaged. Everything seems to be working as it should except the module itself not operating.

    I am wondering, if it ends up being the module, can it be disassembled to possibly repair?
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2013
  8. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Have you checked to see if terminal B of plug 17A-17B gets power when set/coast switch is applied. Also terminal C when resume/accel switch is applied. You should be able to go reliably from logic high to logic low on each terminal when each switch is applied.

    Make sure those two tests are reliable, That cable swings with the bars so it could be broken internally.

    Since the speedo works, the cruise control module is probably getting a good ground speed input.

    Unless I missed something, it sounds like your other tests have it covered. I can't believe the price of that module if purchased new from HD. The module is probably potted for weather proofing so fixing it would be slim, but the core has no value so opening it up would be fun.
     
  9. propflux01

    propflux01 Active Member

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    I just checked for B+ on pin "B" and Pin "C".. here is my results:

    Pos meter lead to Pin "B" Neg meter lead to ground. 0 Volts Static, 12.5V when SET is engaged.

    Pos meter lead to pin "C", neg meter lead to ground. 9 Volts Static, 12.5V when RESUME is applied !!!!

    I noticed when checking resistance checks (per test 7.4, pins "F" and "B" )that SET portion was infinite until I selected SET, then went to Full Continuity.

    When checking test 7.5 (Pins "F" and "C") RESUME portion had 150K OHMS static, full continuity when RESUME was selected

    Something possibly 'bleeding' over?
     
  10. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Forgot to mention that the 2 checks I talked about, are taken with connector 17 disconnected.

    If the results you got was with connector 17 disconnected, then you could be sitting on the problem.

    B+ power goes into the "set/resume/accel/coast" on the orange/white wire (pin 1 of 22B)
    The 2 switches send B+ back to the cruise module (connector 17 pin B & C).

    So I would make those 2 tests with connector 17 disconnected with key ON.

    (Connector 17 is the cruise module connector)