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Cracked Y pipe on RK

If you shop around you can do it for $750 or a little less. I found these on ebay. V&H slip on muffler-item #14017648322=$337.95 and V&H true duel headers-item #310384804514=$370.79. Headers come with heat shields and all hardware.
 
HDDon said:
If you shop around you can do it for $750 or a little less. I found these on ebay. V&H slip on muffler-item #14017648322=$337.95 and V&H true duel headers-item #310384804514=$370.79. Headers come with heat shields and all hardware.
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I already have the V&H slip ons, sound great..
 
It does not take long for a loose install in the rear, at the slip-ons, to take out the Y-pipe and its mount to the top of the starter. That mount is only a bent metal tab. If it breaks, you'll get a cracked Y-pipe. If your slip-on mount(s) slip loose (rubber out of holder), or the left saddlebag bracket breaks (common), in a few short minutes of riding you will have a broken bracket tab and cracked Y-pipe.

Good luck,
Rich P
 
RibEye said:
It does not take long for a loose install in the rear, at the slip-ons, to take out the Y-pipe and its mount to the top of the starter. That mount is only a bent metal tab. If it breaks, you'll get a cracked Y-pipe. If your slip-on mount(s) slip loose (rubber out of holder), or the left saddlebag bracket breaks (common), in a few short minutes of riding you will have a broken bracket tab and cracked Y-pipe.

Good luck,
Rich P
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Ribeye, funny you should mention that, that tab was busted, and the break was rusted so it had been broke for a while, just picked up a new one of those too
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glimmerman said:
I'm a boilermaker/welder with 42 years experience. problem here is that the metal is a) contaminated with carbon from the exhaust. b) lost most resilisence because of repeated hot/cold cycles. my personal recommendation is oxy/acetylene welding with an S-6 wire. it will remove most impurities. S-3 is for mulitiple pass applications and depends on clean metal(not here). mig or tig tig welding has a concentrated heat that may warp the pipe. oxy/acet. will heat the entire pipe ensuring less warpage and better control of the heat affected zone. it may be necessary to post-weld treat the area. also, a good lpt (dye check) of the area may show additional cracking parallel to the visible crack. this should be addressed as well. don't be suprised if it cracks again. most likely the metal has lost it's life. just a problem w/ heat and age in an exhaust. jmho.
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You make an excellent point here Glimmerman. I work as a Mould Maker ( 41 yrs.) and we use cast iron blanks as a mould all the time. One of the problems that we frequently encounter is when the iron looses its life after many heat/cooling cycles while producing bottles and gets fire cracked. Welding it gets extremely difficult as there are many pin holes in the weld. We have to undercut the iron deep hoping to find a good base for the weld to adhere. We also use oxy/acet with a hopper on our torch that funnels nickel powder that fuses to the moulds as we weld. Nickel & cast iron are a great marriage.
Could you explain the dye check process? I am curious about that.
Thanks,
HC
 
horizonchaser said:
You make an excellent point here Glimmerman. I work as a Mould Maker ( 41 yrs.) and we use cast iron blanks as a mould all the time. One of the problems that we frequently encounter is when the iron looses its life after many heat/cooling cycles while producing bottles and gets fire cracked. Welding it gets extremely difficult as there are many pin holes in the weld. We have to undercut the iron deep hoping to find a good base for the weld to adhere. We also use oxy/acet with a hopper on our torch that funnels nickel powder that fuses to the moulds as we weld. Nickel & cast iron are a great marriage.
Could you explain the dye check process? I am curious about that.
Thanks,
HC[


Wow, you guys are way over my head......I'm just gonna try some JB Weld. ;)
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colnajoe said:
Wow, you guys are way over my head......I'm just gonna try some JB Weld. ;)
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:wall

Why didn't I think of that?:newsmile100::newsmile100::newsmile100:

It may work or not. It will plug the leak for ? a while and lots cheaper$$.. It WILL make it harder to weld prep IF you weld later.

I have used JB Weld on aluminum things to fill gouges (boat drives) instead of Heli-arc. Worked fine as a filler material and filed it down smoothly ON the boat. THAT stuff Stayed there on my boats out-drive forever, BUT, No Stress or need to Hold-up under vibration like your pies DO,,,, Who Knows IT May do a good job for a while.. Let us know ...

signed....BUBBIE
 
Just weld it and see what happens:D. I am by no means an expert ,but, have welded around the farm for 20 years. My stuff and countless neighbors on about every Saturday. The man that taught me to weld has his trade in Nuke Plants. I have seen him weld many exhaust pipes headers and the like that sill hold today. Heck I have fixed cast with a mig and have it hold years later. Just like the real welders have said dont over heat and see how it goes??? Wost case you have to replace later,best case a simple fix that may last for years.

Matt
 
colnajoe- the dye check process is where a penetrant is applied to the metal and allowed to sit (correct term here is dwell time, just like points in a distributor.) it is removed and a white powder sprayed on the area- developer. now sit and wait. if there are cracks, pinholes, porosity, it will show as a bleeder in the powder. now this is just a quicky. metal needs to be CLEAN, free of rust or contaminants. spray with cleaner-remover-wait. spray actually a paint brush is better to apply the dye. wait. spray c/r on rag and wipe off. wait then spray powder. When i removed my cat, the base metal here was horrible. nothing but porosity. took a lot of tricks to glue this back together w/12k on the clock. its fixed and no leaks but a poor quality of metal in factory pipes.
 
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