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Cracked Big Sucker

Anybody got any experience with Wimmer or Zippers? May go with one of their products. They are made in the USA. Seems the S.E. has the same issue as the ANBS as stated above. They are probably made in the same part of the orient. Searched and didnt come up with much on either of these air cleaners.

TIA,

Bodeen
 
Anybody got any experience with Wimmer or Zippers? May go with one of their products. They are made in the USA. Seems the S.E. has the same issue as the ANBS as stated above. They are probably made in the same part of the orient. Searched and didnt come up with much on either of these air cleaners.

TIA,

Bodeen

Bodeen,
I agree with you,,,,, When I took out the SE back-plate, I thought it LOOKED the very same as the ANBS and Knew it was like you said "Made In the Same Place"..

I do think MY bolts coming LOOSE caused it to vibritate and you know a sporty,, Lots of Snap and Viberation in that rubber Mounted motor... So I'll give them that,, But the Casting is way WAY thin in that area of the back-plate.

Keep us posted on what you decide and Which product you go with and how GOOD you think the product is....

At the time I had MY problem,,, I never wanted to wait or argue the point with anybody over the Phone on Warrenty,,, :bigsmiley19: so I just elected to buy a Whole new one so I could RIDE....

signed....BUBBIE

Same thing happend to my buddy and he contacted Ness and after sending them some pictures the replaced the parts for him with free shipping. He actually had two problems with his. The first was that the scews that hold the filter to the backing backing plate broke and AN replaced them no cost. Then the backing plate broke as described in earlier post broke AN replaced that as well at no cost.
Seems to me they have major defects in these parts, I went with the heavy breather from HD have not had one problem with it.
************************************************
I just posted that my bolt Came LOOSE.... I ALSO had (a) THE bolt BREAK on My spacer filter bolt ALSO...

That is where I found out WHY the product used to MAKE the long screws was poorly done..

Imagine This: The threaded end they put into the end of their Spacer Tube to make it a BOLT,,, is a LONG allen headed SET SCREW,, Used In Reverse (head inside tube), IT breaks off right at that weak spot Where the internal allen wrench fits into the HOLLOW spot on the allen set screw....

INSIDE head of allen set screw is Used in reverse SO that WEAK SPOT Stuck Inside (threaded) into the tube to make it a BOLT..This is why they break off..

THE FIX before they break;
By clamping the threaded allen into a vice tightly(mashing threads is okay) and turning them out (toss threaded allens away) ..... Then running a tap INTO the tube 1.5" and Use a Proper Long Stud type back,,, INTO the tube(lock tighted red) will make the tube safe as a BOLT and should NOT break-off--- No WEAK Spot.. about ? 1/2" sticking out {copy their Original thread length (stick-out) here when duplicating their BOLT}.

Me,,,,,,I just stopped short on the above Remedy,,, when finished tapping out the Tube further to use as a long Nut,,, I Just put 3/4" STUDS into the carb and Red Locktighted them in there so NO wear on the alum carb thread after that.. Using the long Bolt as a Long NUT is good with less wear on alum parts.

Either way THIS will solve this Short Sighted Problem...:shock

I know a LOT of Yada-yada-yada but that is ME.... :guitar

Where is Glider to explain this when I need Him. :D

signed....BUBBIE
 
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Bodeen,
I agree with you,,,,, When I took out the SE back-plate, I thought it LOOKED the very same as the ANBS and Knew it was like you said "Made In the Same Place"..

I do think MY bolts coming LOOSE caused it to vibritate and you know a sporty,, Lots of Snap and Viberation in that rubber Mounted motor... So I'll give them that,, But the Casting is way WAY thin in that area of the back-plate.

Keep us posted on what you decide and Which product you go with and how GOOD you think the product is....

At the time I had MY problem,,, I never wanted to wait or argue the point with anybody over the Phone on Warrenty,,, :bigsmiley19: so I just elected to buy a Whole new one so I could RIDE....

signed....BUBBIE

My bolts were never once loose. When I took it apart the bolts were all tight, when I removed the backplate the broken piece stayed on the carb around the mounting hole. I thought it was a piece of gasket and realized it was more than that.
I didnt buy the ANBS myself. It was on the bike when I got it so since I am not the original purchaser, they probably wont do anyhting and quite frankly after reading some of the other folks issues with the product, I don't want another either. NEXT!

Just wanted to see if others had an opinion about the Zippers or the Wimmer. Price difference is substantial and I'm not sure about the way the Wimmers Crankcase breather apparatus looks.

Thanks,

Bodeen

************************************************
I just posted that my bolt Came LOOSE.... I ALSO had (a) THE bolt BREAK on My spacer filter bolt ALSO...

That is where I found out WHY the product used to MAKE the long screws was poorly done..

Imagine This: The threaded end they put into the end of their Spacer Tube to make it a BOLT,,, is a LONG allen headed SET SCREW,, Used In Reverse (head inside tube), IT breaks off right at that weak spot Where the internal allen wrench fits into the HOLLOW spot on the allen set screw....

INSIDE head of allen set screw is Used in reverse SO that WEAK SPOT Stuck Inside (threaded) into the tube to make it a BOLT..This is why they break off..

THE FIX before they break;
By clamping the threaded allen into a vice tightly(mashing threads is okay) and turning them out (toss threaded allens away) ..... Then running a tap INTO the tube 1.5" and Use a Proper Long Stud type back,,, INTO the tube(lock tighted red) will make the tube safe as a BOLT and should NOT break-off--- No WEAK Spot.. about ? 1/2" sticking out {copy their Original thread length (stick-out) here when duplicating their BOLT}.

Me,,,,,,I just stopped short on the above Remedy,,, when finished tapping out the Tube further to use as a long Nut,,, I Just put 3/4" STUDS into the carb and Red Locktighted them in there so NO wear on the alum carb thread after that.. Using the long Bolt as a Long NUT is good with less wear on alum parts.

Either way THIS will solve this Short Sighted Problem...:shock

I know a LOT of Yada-yada-yada but that is ME.... :guitar

Where is Glider to explain this when I need Him. :D

signed....BUBBIE

I understand exactly what you are saying Bubbie. The all thread needs to be longer without an allen in the end. The standoff is tapped deeper to make the all thread go into it further. The all thread is red locktite into the card instead of the standoff.

Bodeen
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well I said I would let you all know the route I took with my Cracked Big Sucker. I went to the Webster bike swap meet yesterday and picked up another Big Sucker backing plate for $5. Couldn't find S.E. or other brand. Couldn't beat the price and when/if it breaks again I'll re-evaluate then.
Picked up some other odds and ends too!

Bodeen
 
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