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Counter Shaft movement

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twooodogz

Member
I have a trans leak coming from behind my primary. So I decided to tear it apart and fix it myself. First time.... but I am fairly good with mechanical skills and certainly not afraid to learn something new. So with that background in mind once I got the primary case off I was looking into the next step and realized that the counter shaft (clutch to trans) has significant slop in it. Kind of makes sense that the bearing in Primary case would eliminate this slop but I want to be sure before I put it all back together and find out the hard way it should have been repaired. Here is a video

View attachment IMG_0016.zip
 
I think you'll find the bearing in the tranny is bad when you get the belt pulley off. I did my trans seal this winter and my shaft wouldn't move like yours. The primary bearing might take out some slop but that would mean it's taking the whole load on the output shaft. JMO
 
twooodogz said:
I have a trans leak coming from behind my primary. So I decided to tear it apart and fix it myself. First time.... but I am fairly good with mechanical skills and certainly not afraid to learn something new. So with that background in mind once I got the primary case off I was looking into the next step and realized that the counter shaft (clutch to trans) has significant slop in it. Kind of makes sense that the bearing in Primary case would eliminate this slop but I want to be sure before I put it all back together and find out the hard way it should have been repaired. Here is a video

View attachment 16354
Click to expand...

That shaft is the mainshaft, not the counter shaft and the movement is definitely a sign bad juju is about to happen if not addressed. You will need to continue to tear it down from the trap door side. Your leak is probably the result of the inner primary bearing race walking in on the 5th gear/main shaft seal; the one with the orange outer ring. Pull the tranny guts from the trap door side and replace the trap door bearings, the main shaft bearing and all the seals on the primary side including the quad seal and spacer, shift shaft seal, main shaft seal, main shaft/5th gear seal, inner primary race (replace with S&S if a pre-'06 model), inner primary bearing and seal.

If an early model, do not apply any sealant between the inner primary case and motor case when reassembling but do apply some sealant to the head of the fasteners that attach the inner primary case to the motor case.

Hope you have the service manual; you are going to need it as well as some tools.:coffee
 
Yes I do have the manual.

Thanks for clarifying the Main vs counter shaft. I suppose i was getting a bit cross eyed looking at the pics in the manual. I knew it didn't make sense for the clutch to be on the countershaft but I was confident that if I was wrong someone here could set me straight.

BTW the bike is an '03 FXDWG with factory custom paint. Blade i think was the name for those who know the paint schemes. I will post pics as I go along. Sounds like I have my work cut out for me.

Again thanks for the help and the info I am sure you will be hearing from me.
 
I believe you can get a 5 sp. tranny rebuild kit from Jim's. They run around $250.00. They come with all the bearings,seals, gaskets etc.
tourbox
 
Well

I'm still working on it haven't had much spare time. Dying to get the bike back on the road though.
Just a fair warning to anyone trying this themselves you are looking at about $700 in specialty tools to get the job done. It is worth it to me, I spent the last month chasing tools looking online to find what I need for cheaper but in the end I just gave up and ordered from local CLEVELAND MOTORCYCLE SUPPLY. They have been very helpful.

Unfortunately I haven't taken many pictures, I just get in the zone and don't think about pictures. In the end I'll be very happy to have done this myself but it's definitely not for the beginner mechanic.

Anyone know the best nuts to put back back on my exhaust studs to avoid them rusting and looking bad?
WAP.gif
 
twooodogz said:
Well

I'm still working on it haven't had much spare time. Dying to get the bike back on the road though. Just a fair warning to anyone trying this themselves you are looking at about $700 in specialty tools to get the job done. It is worth it to me, I spent the last month chasing tools looking online to find what I need for cheaper but in the end I just gave up and ordered from local CLEVELAND MOTORCYCLE SUPPLY. They have been very helpful.

Unfortunately I haven't taken many pictures, I just get in the zone and don't think about pictures. In the end I'll be very happy to have done this myself but it's definitely not for the beginner mechanic.

Anyone know the best nuts to put back back on my exhaust studs to avoid them rusting and looking bad?
WAP.gif
Click to expand...

All the tools necessary can be purchased from Georges garage for about $550; not cheap but, like you, I would rather buy the tools so I can do the work myself rather than trust an unknown dealer tech. It may take me longer to do the work myself but I know it will get done right. The tools one needs are:

primary bearing R/R tool (work around is have the dealer R/R the bearings)trans pulley locking tool
main haft pulley nut socket/donut
main shaft bearing/gear R/R tool (work around is fab up a DIY tool with bolts, washers and PVC pieces)
trans shaft installer tool

There are a variety of other tools, seal installers, trap door puller, trap door bearing R/R tool, etc. which, IMHO, are not required. Any local dealer or machine ship can R/R the trap door bearings or one can fab up a pull/push R/R tool from bolts, washers and some various PVC pieces.

If the counter shaft bearing is replaced one can drive out the old bearing but will need to fab up an install tool from a split puller used as a push tool to install the bearing.

I have a slide show of my last trans rebuild when I installed the Twist Gear setup in my '02 FLHT. If you would like to see it, I can post the link to the show in Photobucket.
 
To follow up on dolt, you can rent pullers, seal drivers, bearing splitters from Auto Zone and Advanced Auto Parts, I could see using a ball joint press to press bearings if one is careful and uses the correct size press plates JMO
 
dolt said:
All the tools necessary can be purchased from Georges garage for about $550; not cheap but, like you, I would rather buy the tools so I can do the work myself rather than trust an unknown dealer tech. It may take me longer to do the work myself but I know it will get done right. The tools one needs are:



primary bearing R/R tool (work around is have the dealer R/R the bearings)trans pulley locking tool

main haft pulley nut socket/donut

main shaft bearing/gear R/R tool (work around is fab up a DIY tool with bolts, washers and PVC pieces)

trans shaft installer tool



There are a variety of other tools, seal installers, trap door puller, trap door bearing R/R tool, etc. which, IMHO, are not required. Any local dealer or machine ship can R/R the trap door bearings or one can fab up a pull/push R/R tool from bolts, washers and some various PVC pieces.



If the counter shaft bearing is replaced one can drive out the old bearing but will need to fab up an install tool from a split puller used as a push tool to install the bearing.



I have a slide show of my last trans rebuild when I installed the Twist Gear setup in my '02 FLHT. If you would like to see it, I can post the link to the show in Photobucket.
Click to expand...


Finally done just in time for Memorial Day, which was my goal in the first place. So, it worked out well.

I'd love to see your slide show. It's always nice to see how someone else took on the same task, never know I may learn something.
 
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