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Compensator

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None of the new compensators will work with your old rotor/flywheel (with the alternator magnets in it). The old kit for the SE compensator came with a new rotor. I haven't seen the parts list for the most recent version to say whether the rotor is included or purchased separately. Regardless, you will need a new rotor with the new compensator.
Last year, I had my compensator ('07 Ultra) replaced w/new SE Compensator (old style, $250) and it came with a new rotor.

The new 2014 P&A book shows the new SE Compensator that is standard on the 2014 bikes.
It also shows no rotor in the kit because the new rotor is already on the new bikes.
I asked the parts guy about the needed rotor. Turns out that it's the same rotor that came with the earlier kit. (I think it is about $117, all by itself.)

Better oiling with the latest SE Compensator ($300) but you'll need the rotor that was in the older SE Compensator kit.
Looking at over $400 for everything needed, plus gaskets, lube and labor.

If it starts to get noisy, get it fixed as it will take out the starter gears. That gets expensive.
My starter gears were fine. You can see them when the primary cover is off.
Mine only made the noise twice, right at the end of the riding season. Did checking on the internet and found what was the probable cause.

I took advantage of free storage if I had either service done or parts bought while in winter storage.
 
Which bolts are you talking about here? Primary cover bolts? Inner primary bolts? Unless a bolt is used in a "torque to yield" application they should be fine to reuse and re-torque almost indefinitely.
primary bolts in this case, especially the long ones. Before you can get to the required torque, you can "feel" the bolt twisting. Could have been my imagination, but I have twisted enough bolts off to kinda know how far to push it. The mechanic that told me about the bolts twisting off was specifically talking about trans case bolts. He said they would twist off, but, was more likely to pull the treads out of the casting. It was advise given to me and I passed it along. I suppose everyone has their own way of doing things. I also know we that have never done any work on motorcycles, trying for the first time, sometimes tend to over do and do not realize what can happen. I appreciated the mechanics advise to me and I passed it along. I for one have twisted bolts trying to get to torque, so I listened.
As for the rotor, my kit came the rotor. I bought it about three months ago.
 
I have a 2008 Screaming Eagle Ultra. Does it have a standard compensator or a Screaming Eagle compensator?
 
I have a 2008 Screaming Eagle Ultra. Does it have a standard compensator or a Screaming Eagle compensator?
My guess is you have the stock (not SE) compensator.
Have the parts counter look it up in the parts book for your bike.

Oooops.
Didn't notice your SE model.
Better check with the parts counter
 
primary bolts in this case, especially the long ones. Before you can get to the required torque, you can "feel" the bolt twisting. Could have been my imagination, but I have twisted enough bolts off to kinda know how far to push it. The mechanic that told me about the bolts twisting off was specifically talking about trans case bolts. He said they would twist off, but, was more likely to pull the treads out of the casting. It was advise given to me and I passed it along. I suppose everyone has their own way of doing things. I also know we that have never done any work on motorcycles, trying for the first time, sometimes tend to over do and do not realize what can happen. I appreciated the mechanics advise to me and I passed it along. I for one have twisted bolts trying to get to torque, so I listened.
As for the rotor, my kit came the rotor. I bought it about three months ago.

You really have my curiosity aroused now. When you say that you can feel the bolt twisting before you get to torque do you mean that you are using a torque wrench and attempting to reach the specified torque value, or just that you are tightening them and they start to twist before you have reached what "feels" tight? If you are using a torque wrench, what is the torque value that you are using?
 
The inner bolts are fairly substantial. Twisting one off would be far beyond the torque spec IMO. I have had mine in and out numerous times and have never had this fear. The outer cover bolts, that is a different story. The threads for those can pulled out very easily.
 
rollo3076 - what is the difference that I will notice on the first ride?
No noise, no clunk when you shift, and it may be my imagination, but it seems to be more jump in the take off and the shift between gears. I know it doesnt sound like something that would happen with the comp change. When you release the clutch, its an instant lurch that it didnt have with the original comp. I dont know? You see what I mean.
 
No noise, no clunk when you shift, and it may be my imagination, but it seems to be more jump in the take off and the shift between gears. I know it doesnt sound like something that would happen with the comp change. When you release the clutch, its an instant lurch that it didnt have with the original comp. I dont know? You see what I mean.

I have always thought that the trans. on my bike sounded like a box of rocks being tossed around, but was told by someone on this site that the new 6 speeds are clunky sounding.
 
Post by btsom

You are right. The latest new SE compensator requires a new rotor?? Also the little plastic part that is to be glued to the outer primary. I don't think I want to glue anything inside the primary casing. You can buy a new chrome outer casing for big $$ that already has that glued part as an integral part of the casing (i.e. not glued). All these compensator problems should have (or be) a recall by Harley. They are jerking everyone around with all these fixes.
 
gusotto - Can you say who did the work? Was it Harley? I got a price of $1028.12!
It was at the Dubuque, IA. Harley dealership.
You're probably too far away.

While in there, I had them replace the automatic primary chain tensioner ($100), only because there were a few wear marks on the plastic and there wasn't any charge for labor. It is removed and replaced during the compensator job anyway. I just wanted a new part.
I was happy with their work and expected charges.

I picked up a flier from the Waterloo Harley dealer and they are charging $379.99 installed. Good through December.
This is the new SE Compensator kit (PN 4200064).
Only problem is you'll need the new rotor (PN 30041-08) that doesn't come in the kit. It's included in the earlier kit (PN 37938-08A). Going to be extra cost to blend the latest SE compensator on a bike needing one.
The latest SE Compensator is standard on 2014 bikes.

When the banging starts while starting, best to get it fixed as it'll eventually take out the starter.

There is an earlier article (Q/A section) in American Iron addressing this problem. (Still looking for the issue).
Replacing the compensator to save the starter.
 
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