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Compensator Upgrade Update

PigSnot said:
Will likely need to grind away a little flash from the inner primary case to remove the rotor. Would probably get a little grindstone with ¼ inch shaft and use on a drill, and lots of rags to stuff in the primary case to keep all the grinding away.

Comments/opinions are welcomed and appreciated. :)
Click to expand...

Sounds and looks like you have a plan. But instead of using a grindstone, I would use a carbide die grinding bit. Grinding stones shed a lot of "stone" which is nasty stuff. All the rags in the world won't keep stone particles out since the entire working area is oily. A Carbide bit won't shed anything. Inner cover particles left behind are no where as bad as Stone particles.
 
OK, the more I review this and other related threads, the more I'm convinced this is something I want to do. I've read through the section in my service manual that talks about removing and installing the drive components and I have a couple questions. These might be answered in the instructions that come with the new compensator but I don't have those yet.

1. "Using a breaker bar, rotate compensating sprocket bolt in direction shown to remove." What exactly is a breaker bar? Is it a specific tool or an extension you put on your handle to increase leverage?

2. Can anyone explain what the picture is below every figure displaying the opened primary? Looks like a set of stairs with the international symbol for "NO" over it. Don't work on your bike while it's on the stairs? I really hadn't planned on trying that one!
 
The instructions are available for download from HD site:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J04825.pdf

1. I think the breaker bar is the handle/lever that comes with socket sets with just the drive stub, without the ratchet head, so that more pressure can be applied without fear of wrecking the ratchet gears. Can be purchased separate. If needed, I would slip a pipe extension for added leverage over this, but not on a ratchet.

2. Again, my understanding, the ‘no set of stairs’ used to be the locking tool of previous years and models. Placed near the top of the sprocket and underneath the chain (1 o’clock position) it would stop the chain from moving. Seems it caused uneven stretching of the chain, and thus an issue. Now the drive locking tool is made from flat bar operating on the sprockets. The way the primary and 'no stairs' displays seems way out of proportions as the block is probably quite small.

I’m just new to Harleys, but enjoying the learning curve…
 
Hoople said:
Sounds and looks like you have a plan. But instead of using a grindstone, I would use a carbide die grinding bit. Grinding stones shed a lot of "stone" which is nasty stuff. All the rags in the world won't keep stone particles out since the entire working area is oily. A Carbide bit won't shed anything. Inner cover particles left behind are no where as bad as Stone particles.
Click to expand...


Thanks Hoople. I'll go for that. :D
 
Dr. Doolittle said:
OK, the more I review this and other related threads, the more I'm convinced this is something I want to do. I've read through the section in my service manual that talks about removing and installing the drive components and I have a couple questions. These might be answered in the instructions that come with the new compensator but I don't have those yet.

1. "Using a breaker bar, rotate compensating sprocket bolt in direction shown to remove." What exactly is a breaker bar? Is it a specific tool or an extension you put on your handle to increase leverage?

2. Can anyone explain what the picture is below every figure displaying the opened primary? Looks like a set of stairs with the international symbol for "NO" over it. Don't work on your bike while it's on the stairs? I really hadn't planned on trying that one!
Click to expand...

Breaker bar is a long bar with a square drive 0n a pin mounting allowing you to adjust the angle you are pulling from
normal length would be about 24" great tool for easing off tight fastners one of the best investments ive ever made

Brian
 
PigSnot said:
The instructions are available for download from HD site:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J04825.pdf

1. I think the breaker bar is the handle/lever that comes with socket sets with just the drive stub, without the ratchet head, so that more pressure can be applied without fear of wrecking the ratchet gears. Can be purchased separate. If needed, I would slip a pipe extension for added leverage over this, but not on a ratchet.

2. Again, my understanding, the ‘no set of stairs’ used to be the locking tool of previous years and models. Placed near the top of the sprocket and underneath the chain (1 o’clock position) it would stop the chain from moving. Seems it caused uneven stretching of the chain, and thus an issue. Now the drive locking tool is made from flat bar operating on the sprockets. The way the primary and 'no stairs' displays seems way out of proportions as the block is probably quite small.

I’m just new to Harleys, but enjoying the learning curve…
Click to expand...

fin_676 said:
Breaker bar is a long bar with a square drive 0n a pin mounting allowing you to adjust the angle you are pulling from
normal length would be about 24" great tool for easing off tight fastners one of the best investments ive ever made

Brian
Click to expand...

Thanks guys! Just returned from running a few errands on the bike since it's supposed to be a rainy weekend. Last stop was Lowes to get myself a breaker bar. Learn something new every day!
 
:(Just be careful.I think there is a "left" hand thread in there somewhere.The biggest breaker bar in the world wont undo that if you're turnin' the wrong way!
 
OK. Got the bike back...the compensator upgrade is indeed worthy of all the hype. The starter knock...gone, I mean completely eliminated. The bike even seems to start quicker, although that could be in my head. Furthermore, there is a lot less drive chain noise at highway speed. Prior to this I had an annoying swooshing sound that drove me nuts. IT sounded like the front brake was rubbing. I checked everything and had just decided to live with it...that is gone as well. The bike sounds completely different. She also changes gears easier and quieter, don't know why but it does. Anyway, this was well worth it, I am happy with the mod. If you can, get it done, you won't regret it.
 
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