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clutch adjustment

coopernicus

coopernicus

Senior Member
Contributor
Hey I just installed the burly brand easy clutch and wow what a difference. I went ahead and adjusted my clutch....first time ever and I backed the threaded stem out 3/4 turn cause the book said 1/2 to 1 full turn. My question is : is backing out more result in less travel at my hand before hitting friction. Cause now I want to creep forward when I have the clutch pulled in all the way. So which way do I need to go to get back to where it doesn't creep with clutch pulled in?
 
Need to back it off some more, she's still engaging. Try adjusting a little at a time until she doesn't
creep on you. You should have a tiny bit of free travel in the clutch lever.
Also adjust when the bike is stone cold.
 
Back the threaded stem out 1/2 turn that should get further separation of the plates for the same pull on the leaver but as jeff said a wee bit at a time till you find the happy setting for your bike
Remember that a wet multi plate clutch uses the oil as part of the grip system and if the oil is cold or too thick a grade then some creep may be evident spinning the clutch a wee bit faster can throw the oil free and give a clean disconnection under some circumstances

Brian
 
Ok guys so I haven't rode it yet.....still healing.......I did do it completely cold and just started it in the garage. So basically if I do it the same way every time on where I start my adjustment, further backing out = less creeping. I guess that's what I really need to know. Brain's a little slow right now so please bear with me.
 
Like Brian says start with 1/2 turn and then like Jeff said adjust the cable so that you have about 1/16 inch of travel at the lever before you feel it starts to engage.
 
Just a thought... You did fully compress adjustment on cable before performing adjustment????
 
dbmg said:
Just a thought... You did fully compress adjustment on cable before performing adjustment????
Click to expand...
Yes

It's just off a little. I will do it the same way again at the same starting point and go a little further. I can't ride it right now, maybe in a week or so. If you do the adjustment and bike is on lift would you be able to turn wheel by hand with clutch pulled in?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
coopernicus said:
It's just off a little. I will do it the same way again at the same starting point and go a little further. I can't ride it right now, maybe in a week or so. If you do the adjustment and bike is on lift would you be able to turn wheel by hand with clutch pulled in?
Click to expand...

If the back wheel is off the ground...yes
 
coopernicus said:
It's just off a little. I will do it the same way again at the same starting point and go a little further. I can't ride it right now, maybe in a week or so. If you do the adjustment and bike is on lift would you be able to turn wheel by hand with clutch pulled in?
Click to expand...

Probably not. If the bike is fully cool, oil will be sticking between the plates. Try putting the bike in gear with engine off sometime, pull the clutch and try to push it. Pretty hard to get moving.
 
I agree with Pete that the clutch will drag if the oil is cold it also needs the clutch to be spinning to throw the excess oil off the plates I don't think I have been able to push any of my Harleys when cold in gear and the clutch pulled
Going back a few years with old British bikes I would pull the clutch in prior to starting and kick over twice to free the clutch plates oil can be very sticky in certain circumstances

Brian
 
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