Clutch adjustment

Discussion in 'Transmission' started by Mavagrand, Feb 4, 2011.

  1. Mavagrand

    Mavagrand Senior Member

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    I've adjusted my clutch per instructions in the service manual. Not sure if it's right. Bike doesn't lurch if I start it in gear with clutch in and I can find neutral easy. However, when starting off in first, the clutch disengages as soon as I start letting the lever off the grip..I mean as soon. Is that right for an adjjuIstment? I'm thinking it is cause it seems the further out in the lever travel the clutch disengages, the more it will need adjustment. I think>
     
  2. Mad Dog Jim

    Mad Dog Jim Banned

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    I'll look back at this one in a while cuz I'm adjusting mine today after coffee and wake up. I'm a visual learner and it's always hard for me to get the image in my head how this all works, but it seems like the cable adjustment is only about the cable length. It has to be about 1/16 of an inch slack where the ferrel fits into the lever housing. As it stretches over time you have to readjust. And the adjustment is only there to let slack out so you can instal or remove the cable and to adjust for cable stretch. the actual clutch adjustment is done at the clutch itself. When I try to picture what's going on once the cable is adjusted correctly, it seems that if the cluch engaged when the lever is too far away from the grip that it would slip. And if it engaged when the lever is too close to the grip then it would not be fully DIS engaged when you put the bike in gear. I think it's properly adjusted when the clutch starts to engages when the lever is about 3/4" to an inch from the grip. Leaving plenty of travel to fully engage.

    It sounds like you have your adjusted at the minimum amount to fully disengage it if the lever is depressed all the way to the grip. Too close in my opinion. BUT this is coming from someone who is still learning this stuff...
     
  3. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Don't you mean "engages" as soon as you begin to release the lever. If so, that should not be.

    (That would mean you now have more than 1/16"-1/8" of lever travel free play. Which also should not be)
     
  4. craig Lee

    craig Lee Active Member

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    The guru's will jump in here but I adjust the cable out so it starts to engage about 1"-1 1/2" from the grip. This still allows for the start of disengage at the top properly. Maybe pull the cable furthur apart to tighten the clutch lever. OK, the above beat me to it. :)
     
  5. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    NO yours is too LOOSE some place...(at the clutch inside adjustment I think)

    LOOSEN the clutch cable adjustment,,, with the derby cover off,,, loosen the locking nut on the clutch center adjustment allen bolt....

    Turn IN clockwise finger tight NOT any more
    (using the allen wrench like a Straight screwdriver to turn it IN is OK,,, BUT NOT any tighter than touching SNUGLY off Loose).....

    When the bolt HITs solid against the clutch DO NOT TURN IN ANY MORE.(.),,,,,,,,,

    Now back it OUT away(left loosen),,,, using the allen wrench EXACTLY 1/2 Of a full circle From Stop spot (1/2 turn out from tight) NO MORE than 5/8 ,,,But 1/2 a turn is where I like it.
    Holding the center bolt so it DOESN"T LOOSE that adjustment..... Snug the lock jamb nut.... Don't put the derby cover on yet.***


    Then go to the cable adjustment that was totally loosened,,,,,, Lengthen it out and work the clutch lever several times

    NOW turning it out-apart (lengthen) Again FINGER TIGHT against the throw out bearings in the tranny..... work clutch handle some more THEN set it so the clutch Handle has FREE PLAY @ 1/16 to NO MORE than 1/8 an inch seen between clutch handle bracket,,,,, So when you squeeze the handle Lightly (light pressure) against the through-out bearings,,, it will show the 1/16 to 1/8 clearance (looseness) ... VISUAL DIMENSION is good enough...

    Turn handle bars Left full and right full and check for the 1/16 MIN. space and IF there in both places, You are good to go.....

    *** before you Put derby cover on on. Double Check,,, TRY the clutch adjustment (Motor not started) and FEEL,,, LOOK at the clutch pack and see IF the clutch is VISUALLY MOVING right off the bat... and it is not TIGHT at the clutch handle and HAS the 1/16 to 1/8 clearance max.

    Derby cover on and go ride... IT will be DIFFERENT IF adjusted this way,,,,Now the handle should be way out before it engages the clutch...

    HD says the clutch pack can be set from 1/2 to 3/4 to a full turn out o,,, BUT I like the 1/2 turn and no More..
    Liking my clutch plates to separate fully for Less wear while squeezed handle and in gear while stopped... Making it MORE possible to have the Clutch Disengage fully before I put into gear.. LESS CLUNK if you wait a few (5/6 seconds) after pulling clutch handle, then put into gear.

    I have had a few rider say they don't like the clutch handle to operate this way (so far out) and use a 1/4 inch free play to have clutch come into play earlier.. OR adjust the clutch pack out to 5/8-3/4 "..

    signed....BUBBIE :D

    There is a LESS yada yada method in the self help area but I like to Type How I do MINE...........
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 4, 2011
  6. Mad Dog Jim

    Mad Dog Jim Banned

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    You're right! Wordy... But true, I think. I just did mine the Self-Help Tip "Easy" way and it was wrong.Probably did it wrong I'm sure. Then I did it by the $60 big red book way and it is perfect. Seemingly... will know for sure when I get my paint back and star the bike.

    Learned a ton about clutch adjustment in the past 24 hours. Thankd HDT and thanks especially to the Man from Pocatelo!
     
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    You are doing this on a cold clutch RIGHT, this makes a big change, you need more free travel, it is not set right, maybe need to lube the cable too, and dont forget to activate when adjusting it to set the balls in the ramps
     
  8. cedarbrook63

    cedarbrook63 Junior Member

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    Bubbie! - I always really like your posts - they're always so clear. You should write manuals my friend - you'd do a darn sight better than a lot of tech authors. :D
     
  9. HarryB737

    HarryB737 Junior Member

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    I like the "Easy Clutch adjustment" method that Glider wrote, has worked well for me. :D
     
  10. trvlr

    trvlr Junior Member

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    I found this video that worked good for me. I needed some extra hand holding when I was first figuring out how to do this, and this worked for me. Some good foot tapping music on the intro as well :D

    YouTube - Primary Oil Chng N Clutch Adj Part 2