Checking ignition

[Ricky-b]

I have a problem with my 98 sportster sport does not stay running, replaced ignition module and coil still dies

 

[Bodeen]

I moved this here for more visibility.

 

[Breeze3at]

Welcome. More information would help. Does it start easy but die within a few minutes? Does it run long enough to ride at all? How long has it been sitting since it last ran right? What have you done to it since it ran good? It could be a problem with the vac. petcock not staying open, or a clogged petcock screen in the tank, among many other things.

 

[Ricky-b]

I moved this here for more visibility.

Thank you brother

 

[Ricky-b]

Hello breeze, a year or so ago I was riding down the hwy and it died (It starts and runs good) (checked spark, no spark waited 15 mins, it started .It cooled down a Lil .rode for 2 miles same thing ,died (no spark ) I put in new ignition module (that wasn't the problem ) but now it stays running for about 30 seconds then dies. So I put in a new coil (coil wasn't the problem ) so I cleaned the carburetor (that wasn't the problem ) It's a 98 sportster sport the ignition module is under the seat. I was thinking maybe it's the ignition or in the wiring . Like I said, it starts and runs perfect. I hate to take it in to the shop . If any body has any ideas (any) it would be great to her from you .I had a guy telling me I might have to much oil in the oil tank, I don't know, you never know on these bikes these days. Thanks

 

[Breeze3at]

New ignition module and new coil didn't solve the problem, so I'm guessing it's fuel starvation. It's easy to remove the fuel petcock from the tank and check how clogged the screen is, look at the fuel line to carb. also. I believe you have the vac. operated petcock, so also check the vac. line from behind carb. to petcock.

 

[Ricky-b]

Ok thanks

When it dies and I try and to start it I will check for spark, and there is no spark, I wait for 5 mins and then there's spark..It like the bike has to cool down before I start it. Tks

 

[Jeff Klarich]

How old is your battery and have you done a load test? the battery needs a certain amount of volts before you'll have spark at the plugs.

Step by Step Instructions for Testing Your Harley’s Charging System

1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

• AC Output Check:

1. Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
2. Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
3. Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
4. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
5. Generic Specs:

• 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
• 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
• 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm

• Stator Resistance Check:

1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
2. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
3. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
4. Generic Specs:

• 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
• 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
• 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

• Stator IB test or Ground Check:

1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
2. Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
3. There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
4. If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.

5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

• Identifying Wires:

1. Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
2. AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
3. Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.

• Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).

• Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.

1. Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
2. Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
3. Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
4. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
5. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
6. The reading should be Infinite.
7. With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
8. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
9. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
10. The reading should be Infinite.
11. Note: Below is a table to show the readings:

Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ∞
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ∞
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ∞
AC output 2 Ground ∞
Replacement Components
Batteries
350-430 (97-09 FLT, FLH, FLHT Dressers)
350-431 (82-94 FXR, 84-90 Softail, 71-86 FX, 79-96 XL)
350-432 (91-09 Softail, 97-09 Dyna, 97-03 XL)
350-433 (80-96 FLT, FLHT, 93-96 FLHR)

Stators:
380-864 (L84-90 XL)
240-556 (91-06 XL)
381-259 (70-75 Big Twin 15 Amp)
381-084 (76-80 Big Twin17.8 Amp)
381-260 (81-88 Big Twin 22Amp)
381-202 (89-99 Big Twin 32 Amp)
381-596 (00 Softail, 99-03 Dyna)
381-594 (99-01 Touring)
381-595 (02-05 Touring)

Regulators: (Offered in Chrome and Black, Black Part numbers listed below)

380-798 (84-85 XL)
381-177 (86-90 XL)
381-014 (91 XL)
380-797 (92-93 XL)
380-485 (94-03 XL)
381-835 (04-06 XL)
383-089 (07 XL)
381-252 (70-75 Big Twin)
381-328 (76-80 Big Twin)
381-327 (81-88 Big Twin)
381-277 (89-99 Big Twin)
381-605 (00 Softail)
381-603 (97-01 Touring)
381-606 (00-03 Dyna)
Rotors:
380-373 (70-06 Big Twin 18, 22, 32 Amp Systems)
380-374 (95-06 Big Twin 38 Amp Systems)
380-375 (97-05 Big Twin 45/48 Amp Systems)
383-640 (84-90 XL)
383-641 (91-03 XL)
383-642 (04-09 XL) Welcome look here

 

[Ricky-b]

Wow thanks jeff for all the info, The first thing I did was get a new battery. But ya I need to check all the connections (parts )tks

 

[Breeze3at]

When it dies and I try and to start it I will check for spark, and there is no spark, I wait for 5 mins and then there's spark..It like the bike has to cool down before I start it. Tks

Well, that definitely suggests an electrical problem.