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Charging System Upgrade Not working

Vibratinharley

Vibratinharley

Junior Member
I am not getting this. My 1985 FLTC had limited charging but it still worked but I figured since I was uingrading the headlights and maybe adding some heated grips and stuff in the future that I would upgrade the charging system to 32 amps like my 90 FLHS had. I installed new rotor, stator and regulator ( a complete kit ) from BK Rider This kit:

C01060255 BKrider 32amp Charging System for Harley-Davidson $119.99

The Bike charges as if I never changed anything. Output seems even lower at idle than before and all lights are dim unless it is running at 2000 rpm and if I turn lights on and step on brake pedal, turn signals stop flashing and ammeter shows battery discharging even when at 2000 rpms. SO,

Did I make a mistake by going with cheap parts as I usually buy high end stuff but being out of work has severely limited my working capital. ANybody?
 
You need to compare the output voltage of the regulator to the voltage you see directly at the battery. Having two meters for this test really helps.

Hook 1 meter directly to the battery posts. Hook another meter (using small pins through the wires) directly to the output wires coming out of the regulator.
Start bike and compare meters at several RPM ranges. If the meters track and the reading is low, the kit is not doing what it should. If the meters do not track and the meter at the regulator is higher, you just have a voltage drop in your wiring you need to fix.

I suspect that is what you will find. It is probably a poor connection but you need to perform this test first so you don't create a bunch of useless work.
 
Thanks for the insight. I am still working on it. The voltages seem to be the same depending on RPM and I am getting between 26-28 volts at 1000 rpm at stator output connection. But I need to find a good device to measure Amps cause when I run engine up from 1000 to 3000 the volts go up to 13.8 + or - a little and seems to charge fine but when loaded up with the dual headlights and flashers and brake lights, at idle it discharges which I would think would be normal but at 3000 rpm, it barely makes 11.8 - 12.1 volts. Seems like system is weak as it acts the same as when it had the 22 amp system on it. Is there a way to check maximum amp output? and at what RPM would it be? Also, is there a way to full field system like on a car to make it go to maximum output? I sometimes wish I would have waited and saved to get high quality parts as I might be doing this job over again......:(
 
13.8 volts, I would like to see 14 or higher, I am suspect of the regulator, also the easiest and cheapest to change
 
Vibratinharley said:
The voltages seem to be the same depending on RPM .........
............it barely makes 11.8 - 12.1 volts.

Also, is there a way to full field system like on a car to make it go to maximum output?(
Click to expand...

On these bikes, the field (rotating part) is always "full field " because it is a permanent magnet. You still have not said where you are measuring that voltage. If your measuring at the battery, you can't jump to a conclusion yet and say the parts you installed are bad. Don't worry about the output amps or the stator voltage yet. Your getting ahead of yourself.
 
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